Restaurant Review - Rhodes W1 Brasserie

Editor's note. Please be aware that the association of this restaurant with Gary Rhodes ceased on 28th September 2012. From this point it will be rebranded as follows: the Brasserie @ The Cumberland  Email: brasserie@thecumberland.co.uk, Phone: 0207 479 3895, Reservations: 0207 616 5930 and will have a new chef. Consequently the brief notes below should be regarded as of historical interest only. 

Separate from the restaurant, this is on the ground floor of the Cumberland Hotel, and has the cavernous feel of a hotel dining room. My starter of scallops with fennel puree had three small scallops that were cooked a fraction too long so that they were just a little resistant to being cut (by no means hard and chewy, just a bit overcooked). The fennel puree was a rather tasteless and unappealing sludge. I am not sure fennel is such an obvious match for scallops (compared to the classic celeriac or cauliflower, say) but this did nothing whatever (1/10).

Fish and chips had sections of plaice that were deep fried, and managed to be rather limp rather than crispy.  Chips were a little undercooked at the final stage, so lacked that attractive crispiness that they should have, though they were cooked through OK.  Bread was undistinguished and bought in rather than made in the kitchen. Overall this was much lower in standard than the restaurant and was well below the level that might enocurage one to come back.  After all, no one is coming here for the atmosphere.