Food Blog

In response to suggestions from several readers of this site, I now write a weekly food blog, rather than just updating my notes every couple of weeks. All feedback is welcome.

	Date Summary 10/05/2008 I try the new Maze Grill, The Abingdon and revisit Amaya. I also try the best that Hampstead and Wimbledon have to offer. 03/05/2008 I try Maze Grill, continue to be impressed by Zuma and Royal China, have a slightly below par meal at Bentleys and enjoyable dishes at Rasa Maricham and Tarantella. Also some Top 50 thoughts. 29/04/2008 We continue the series of occasional chef interviews with Lionel Rigolet of Comme Chez Soi. 24/04/2008 The highs and lows of Barcelona, and the Top 50 Restaurant list comes out. 17/04/2008 I have “Christmas” at the Fat Duck, revisit E&O and Giusto, and have a dismal meal at Hunan. 12/04/2008 This week I try the newly re-launched Launceston Place, revisit the Devonshire and the Brilliant, and bump into Albert Roux 05/04/2008 This week I try Haozhan, revisit Zafferano and the Fish Shop on St John Street, and am reminded just how bad service can get at the new Hammersmith Keralan restaurant Shilpa. 01/04/2008 The series of occasional chef interviews continues with Shane Osborn. 28/03/2008 This week I revisit Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea, try Bord’eaux in Park Lane and revisit Haandi. 22/03/2008 I visit Cheltenham and try Le Champignon Sauvage and Lumiere. Mint Leaf has a chef change and I have a fine meal at the Fat Duck. 15/03/2008 The Carpenter's Arms serves up tolerable food but hilarious service. Roka is still on form, as is local pizzeria Tarantella. Also, the Michelin waifs and strays. 08/03/2008 A week in the deep south of the USA. Also, Udit Sarkhel resurfaces, and other news. 06/03/2008 The official Michelin France 2008 results. 05/03/2008 The Michelin France guide comes out tomorrow, but the news seems to have leaked out 01/03/2008 I try out Tom’s Place, and revisit Cambio de Tercio and Tangawizi. 27/02/2008 My occasional chef interview series continues with Aiden Byrne. Also, some new web site features. 23/02/2008 I try Urban Turban, and revisit Hibiscus, the Devonshire, the Brilliant and Diwana Bhel Poori. 16/02/2008 I venture to the wilds of Croydon to try Le Cassoulet, sample newly Michelin-starred Quilon, and revisit Atelier Robuchon and Royal China. 09/02/2008 I try Rasoi Vineet Bathia, Clos Maggiore, Dehesa and the Grill Room at Browns, and return to Diwana Bhel Poori. 02/02/2008 I try Champor Champor, Pearl Liang and The Duke of Sussex, return to Chez Bruce and reflect on the Michelin UK guide. 28/01/2008 I enjoy some lovely Indian food while on holiday in Goa. 24/01/2008 The Michelin UK Guide comes out 19/01/2008 I visit Angelus, compare Michelin starred Benares with Madhu’s in Southall, and enjoy the new menu at Zafferano. 12/01/2008 I try Tom Ilic and Yumi, return to the Fish Shop on St John Street and the Brilliant, and try eating in Harlow 05/01/2008 Simple British cooking is alive and well and living in Hereford Road. I return to The Devonshire and Royal China, and venture to darkest Pinner in the search for Indian food. 29/12/2007 I try the new Landau at the Langham hotel, and return to Kastoori in search of top vegetarian Indian food now that Sabras has closed. 22/12/2007 I revisit Hawksmoor, and return to old favourites Zafferano and Haandi. Also, my 2007 culinary highs and lows. 15/12/2007 I go to the "other" restaurant at the Dorchester and enjoy it more than Ducasse. Tangawizi continues to impress but not even the Brilliant can rescue a turkey curry. Various Michelin guides come out. 08/12/2007 I venture to Alan Yau’s new venture, Sake No Hana, and mix with the celebs. I return to Madhus in Southall, and to Tarantella in Chiswick. 24/11/2007 This week I try Rowley Leigh’s new Cafe Anglais, revisit Odettes, find a pizzeria with a difference in Giusto, and savour a remarkable special at the Brilliant. The Michelin 2008 Spain guide comes out with little change, but by contrast the new Michelin Tokyo Guide lands with a thump. 17/11/2007 I try Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester on its opening night. I find Semplice to be an impressive Italian restaurant, and have very enjoyable meals at Yauatcha and Haandi. Michelin Germany 2008 comes out, and arrives with a bang. 10/11/2007 I spend Diwali in Southall and meet Prince Charles. Cambio de Tercio seems transformed, and Pizzeria Rustica is all too rustic, at least in its staff hygiene training. 08/11/2007 The chef interview series continues with Joachim Wissler, chef at the superb 3 star restaurant Vendome in Bergisch Gladbach. 03/11/2007 This week I sample the newly opened Hibiscus, and revisit Gilgamesh, La Trompette, La Trenta, High Road Brasserie and the Brackenbury. 29/10/2007 New site feature - interviews with top chefs 27/10/2007 I venture to the wilds of Hoxton to try Bacchus. Gordon Ramsay arrives in Chiswick in the form of a pleasant gastropub, while Gary Rhodes Brasserie disappoints. The Fish shop on St John Street and Rasa Samudra deliver as usual, but I encounter some dismal service at Bar Shu. 20/10/2007 This week a revamp works wonders for Le Vacherin, I have another excellent curry at Haandi and try two Italians: my old favourite Zafferano and new kid on the block La Trenta. 13/10/2007 In Boston, I enjoy the vibrant spicing of a real Sichuan restaurant, but am uninspired by two of the highest rated restaurants there. Back in London, Zaika shows how to make proper biriani. 11/10/2007 The New York 2008 Michelin comes out. 06/10/2007 The Ledbury sails serenely on. Indian cuisine meets Austin Powers at Mantra. The Brackenbury continues to set the standard for a top quality neighbourhood restaurant. 29/09/2007 Lisbon has some great seafood but most places I sampled seemed unable to cook it very well. Tamarind is pleasant but pricey, and Foliage delivers a solid one star meal. Chefs seem to be queueing up to open in London in the autumn. 22/09/2007 My foray to Norfolk is a culinary let-down, but a really promising restaurant opens in London at last. Diwana Bhel Poori and Zafferano continue to excel in their very different ways. 14/09/2007 The Phoenix Palace delivers a capable meal, which is more than can be said for the much-hyped Wahaca. La Trompette and the Brilliant were also on form. I go to a rice tasting, the new Good Food Guide comes out, and I'll be on telly on Monday. 08/09/2007 This week saw a fine meal at the Brackenbury, tasty Thai food from the Fulham Road branch of Patara and another excellent curry at Madhu's in Southall. I also have a new toy. 04/09/2007 Harden's Guide comes out, and generates some headlines. Also some shameless self promotion: I'm sure all you foodies are familiar with Octane magazine... 01/09/2007 A good value Italian discovery in Trenta this week, along with excellent meals at Trompette and Rasa Samudra. I also forgive Racine for the dismal experience I had there when it opened, and find it has settled down just fine. Sadly Boys in Chiswick is a classic: "nice decor, shame about the food" experience. 25/08/2007 Roussillon delivers another enjoyable meal, and an excuse to eat the gorgeous chocolate desserts here. Tangawizi continues to set a standard for Indian cooking that few in London can match, and Royal China continues serenely along. 21/08/2007 Why democracy is not always the best system. I examine a "top 10" restaurant list voted for by web users and find ignorance or worse. 18/08/2007 I revisit Madhu's and have a malai chicken tikka that dreams are made of. My monthly visit to Zafferano is as good as ever, but Matsuri disappoints. My TV appearance firms up. 11/08/2007 Pearl serves up a slightly inconsistent, though mostly good, meal. E&O seems busier than ever, and the cooking seems a little sharper to me than on previous visits. Haandi is as consistently excellent as ever, and I judge a TV dinner. 04/08/2007 Does London need yet another over-expensive yet carefully marketed bistro? Le Gavroche delivers a solid, if imperfect meal, while the Brilliant is a rock of reliability and value in Southall. 28/07/2007 A busy week. Haandi, Zuma and Yauatcha all deliver reliable meals, but the week was really all about comparing Le Manoir au Quat Saisons with Hof van Cleve and Oud Sluis. 21/07/2007 I revisit Umu, the controversial Japanese restaurant. Another excellent meal at Zafferano, but a poor burger experience at Ground. Tangawizi in Richmond continues to impress me. Also, a new site feature, some food quizzes. 14/07/2007 Two new modern British places this week - Gary Rhodes W1 and Skylon. Also contrasting styles of Indian food at the Brilliant in Southall and Rasa Maracham in, er, Kings Cross. 11/07/2007 How to manipulate on-line web-site reviews. Despite their flaws, the on-line sites are driving the print guides out of business: RAC Guide and Les Routiers are no more. 07/07/2007 An Italian week: Theo Randall v Zafferano. At the lower end, Chiswick gains an authentic pizzeria. One more terrible hotel meal makes me wonder what they get up to in hotel kitchens, but Royal China's dim sum almost makes up for it. Finally, is Whole Foods over-priced and over here? 30/06/2007 I have a generally good meal at the Cinnamon Club, and I venture off the tube network, though only as far as the Hinds Head in Bray. I have a stunning meal in Vendome in Germany, but also meet Germany's answer to Basil Fawlty. 26/06/2007 A short tour of Borough Market. 23/06/2007 The Geales relaunch does not fire on all cylinders, but the Brackenbury motors serenely on. Zuma produces another superb meal, while Salt Yard reigns supreme in tapas, even if it is run by Australians. 22/06/2007 Summer fun at the Taste of London festival 16/06/2007 The Thai Bistro is no more, but Budsara is born in its place. Hawksmoor produces a fine steak, while Deya serves up some terrific Indian dishes. I get a further lesson on why it is unwise to leave the tube network when eating, this time in Warwickshire. 09/06/2007 Sonnys continues its return to form. Two different Spanish experiences this week with Barrafina and Moro, while Kiasu is that rarity in London - a Malaysian restaurant. Canteen underwhelms but Zafferano makes up for it. 02/06/2007 Meals this week at the Capital, Foliage, Hakkasan, High Road House, Madhu's and Agni. I also find the most expensive beer in London at a restaurant - £9 a bottle anyone? 26/05/2007 The Brilliant continues to live up to its name, and I manage to break the £10 a head barrier at Diwana Bhel Poori. I also return to Arbutus. On another subject, Marcus Wareing 0, Jill Dupleix 1. 19/05/2007 Another busy week, with meals at the Fat Duck, Pied a Terre, Gavroche and Locanda Locatelli. After all that French and Italian food I needed a curry at Haandi. 12/05/2007 Meals at The Square, Zafferano and Haandi all delivered, but then it was time to up a gear. Off to Paris and dazzling meals at Meurice, Ledoyen and Astrance, although Pre Catalan was hugely disappointing. London has nothing to fear on ethnic foods though, based on my poor Japanese and Vietnamese meals in Paris. 05/05/2007 Manoir aux Quatre Saison produces a superb meal, and Tom Aikens also delivers a high quality experience. I venture into the world of fusion cuisine at Providores, and have an erratic meal at Michael Moore. 28/04/2007 A busy week, with an erratic and costly meal at Suka, an excellent dinner at Roussillon and another at the Ledbury. I even ventured out of London to the Vineyard, and found time for a deeply mediocre curry in Hammersmith. At which place was I sat next to a movie star? 21/04/2007 Chez Bruce purrs along. Smiths of Smithfield wisely sticks to serving top class meat without too many distractions. Sadly chef Mark Jankels is no longer at the stoves of the Notting Hill Brasserie, and it shows. The Waterside Inn shows a few imperfections, though both the view and the bill are spectacular. 14/04/2007 Ex chefs at Zafferano cooking at Manicomio produce a pleasant meal, and then Zafferano itself shows how Italian cooking should be done. Tangawizi produces another excellent meal; I don't usually get excited about lentils, but the dhal here is fabulous. 07/04/2007 A superb meal at Tantris in Munich, though a poor one at Acetaia. Back in London, Boxwood Cafe is disappointing and a chain burger beats its signature dish. I have an "Invasion of the Bodysnatchers" moment in Chiswick. 31/03/2007 Munching in Munchen. A superb meal at Konigshof in Munich. By contrast Aubergine in London disappoints but the Brilliant in Southall is as reliable as ever. 24/03/2007 Two restaurants named after spices deliver. Tangawizi (ginger in Swahili) may not be the best name for a restaurant, but the food makes up for it. Zafferano (saffron in Italian) once again does a fine job with an updated menu. 17/03/2007 A mixed week, with ever-reliable Haandi showing up some of London's trendier venues. Rocket in Putney has everything right apart from the kitchen, Green and Red in Shoreditch disappoints while I jump into the Deep end in Fulham. Also, a fine burger in W4. 10/03/2007 The recently refurbished Gordon Ramsay purrs along. A room with a view is the Petersham Hotel dining room. The new chef at Caprice hasn't changed the formula. I had an excellent tasting menu at Foliage and a cynically poor one at l'Escargot. 03/03/2007 The Brilliant is successfully refurbished, while St Alban struggles to deliver value for money. I had good meals at Pearl and Yauatcha, while a new Lebanese restaurant is erratic. For the revamped Gordon Ramsay stay tuned next week. 24/02/2007 A tale of two curries: fine Indian food in darkest Twickenham, and a return visit to Agni. Zafferano delivers once more, and a mixed bag of tapas in Richmond. Also, the Michelin France 2007 results est arrive. 17/02/2007 A fishy week, with meals at Scotts and the Fish Shop on St John Street. The under-rated Rousillon continued to show high class technique. 10/02/2007 Good meals at the High Road Brasserie and Royal China. The Michelin results are (except France) mostly in, and an odd lot they are. 03/02/2007 A week of fine food in Goa. 27/01/2007 Blogging from India! Some classy South Indian food in Chennai in particular. Also, Michelin makes some surprising choices in the UK. 20/01/2007 Bonds does a good meal despite a bear market in customers. A new tapas bar in Twickenham works well. Haandi continues to impress. 13/01/2007 Two good bistro meals at Tom's Kitchen and High Road Brasserie, and from the sublime to the ridiculous of Italian food: Zafferano v Vino Rosso in Chiswick 06/01/2007 A generally good meal at Maze, despite dangling wine glasses. 30/12/2006 A tasty meal at Eight Over Eight in Chelsea and an even better dinner at Yauatcha. 23/12/2006 Pearl turns out to be very good value for such a smart place, and the Good Curry Awards has some odd choices. 16/12/2006 A fine meal at the ever-improving Notting Hill Brasserie, and a general whinge about the cost of eating out on Christmas day. 09/12/2006 Reviews of Royal China club, the Brackenbury and La Trompette and how fire engines kept me from a new Chiswick restaurant 01/12/2006 Tragedy as Stephen Black leaves Berkeley Square, but on the bright side a smart new Vietnamese restaurant opens in Smithfield. 24/11/2006 Tom's Kitchen is a great success, and Zafferano continues to deliver top Italian cooking. 17/11/2006 A lengthy meal at 1 Lombard Street interspersed with stroppy service, but reliable fish and chips in St John Street. Fine curries at Rasa Samudra and the Brilliant. 11/11/2006 Tasty South Indian cooking at Oottupura, reliable Chinese food at Royal China and ups and downs (but mostly downs) in Chiswick at Vacherin and new opening Carvosso's. 04/11/2006 Excellent new chef at Sonnys in Barnes, top Indian food at Haandi and a sneak visit to the Gourmet Burger Kitchen. 21/10/2006 Read about my visit to Ledbury. My review on Sabras in Willesden and also some important information about the Good Food Guide forcing councils to publish hygiene inspections of restaurants. 14/10/2006 3 star Can Fabes near Barcelona is very good though less so than previous visits. The Michelin Guide to California comes out, and I have both a fine Indian meal at Haandi and a dismal one at Green Chilli. 07/10/2006 The 2007 Good Food Guide hits the bookshelves. Roussillon delivers an excellent meal. Chiswick gets a new gastropub, and a decent one it is. 30/09/2006 Atelier Robuchon hits London. It is good food, but the price is high. Mehek betrays no reason whatever for its recent award at the British Curry Awards. 23/09/2006 Deya produces a fine meal, while the British Curry Awards is bewildering despite the glamour. Zafferano excels itself. 16/09/2006 Pied a Terre produces a very fine meal. Yauatcha and Zafferano also show why they have Michelin stars. 09/09/2006 The Brackenbury shows how to do local bistro when so many others disappoint. The Thai Bistro is simple but pleasant. 02/09/2006 Sumosan is pleasant, but why not just go to Zuma? Ootapura is a different and good addition to the King Street array of Indian places. 28/08/2006 The Square purrs along, though it lacks real excitement. Jeevan in Wembley is not worth the trip. 20/08/2006 Eight Over Eight in Chelsea is identical in appearance to E&O, and fortunately the food is almsot as good as well. Bentleys shows why you should never go to a fish restaurant on a Monday. 12/08/2006 Cocoon is like an Austin Powers set, but the food is surprisingly good. Zafferano produces a fine wild sea bass dish. 06/08/2006 Pied a Terre shines after its reopening. Zuma shows why it is so popular, and Patara is the best Thai restaurant in London. High Road House opens in Chsiwcik, and the luvvies love it. 29/07/2006 Noisette is pleasant but expensive, and Bjorn van der Horst shows the dining room his extensive English vocabulary. Galvins Bistro is fine, but I cannot really see what the fuss is about. Excellent Indian cooking at Rasa Maricham and the Brilliant in Southall, and the usual at Zafferano. 22/07/2006 Mark Jankels is a fine chef, and the Notting Hill Brasserie an excellent spot. Bellamys in Mayfair was rather dull, but I have enjoyable meals at Trompette, Rasa Maricham and the Thai Bistro. Le Talbooth in Essex is a tragi-comic meal: beautiful setting, shame about the truly awful food. 15/07/2006 The Brilliant and Deya show the traditional and modern facesof Indian cooking, and both succeed very well. Zafferano is as good as ever in its newly expanded setting. 09/07/2006 Galvin at Windows is solid, but not cheap, while its wine list has some larcenous mark-ups. Trompette in Chiswick is consistent as usual, while Yauatcha has superb dim sum. 30/06/2006 Gilgamesh is the most ambitious opening in London since, well, a very long time. Despite its risky Camden location it is already filling up with diners. 25/06/2006 Arbutus seems perfectly pleasant to me, but I am surprised at the acclaim it is getting. Rasa Maricham serves up some tasty Keralan food, while Carluccio in W4 is downright poor. 18/06/2006 1880 has a chef change, but seems stilll to be able to deliver. 11/06/2006 Eating in Krakow. Under the Angels beats the more famous places.