The Duke of Sussex is a Chiswick pub from the Victorian era, serving Spanish food as well as a few more conventional pub dishes. The main dining room is attractive, with a large skylight and a view over the garden. The little kitchen is open to the dining room in one corner.
The sourdough bread here is made from scratch in the kitchen, and this particular loaf had just come out of the oven. It had a pleasing hint of acidity and good texture (15/20). If they can make their own bread in the tiny kitchen here, it is ludicrous for kitchens such as that at the flagship Gordon Ramsay restaurant to claim they have to buy their own bread because of space constraints.
Salad of goat cheese, beetroot and hazelnut was attractively presented, the beetroot reasonable, though a little more dressing would have been useful (12/20). Pea and watercress was topped with a rather unnecessary blob of crème fraiche, but the soup itself had reasonably good flavour and the seasoning was fine (12/20).
Guinea fowl was served on the bone, resting on a generous bed of puy lentils, served with crisp cavolo nero and gravy. This was a very enjoyable, hearty dish, the bird cooked properly, the lentils tender and having a little bite of vinegar (13/20). Vegetarian paella was nicely made, with assorted vegetables including peppers, tomatoes, courgettes and peas. The rice had good texture and the vegetables were cooked properly, though the stock used could have been more intense (12/20).
Service was capable, and the bill including £10 corkage was just £28 per person, which was very fair indeed. Portions here are large, and so we never made it to dessert. The Duke of Sussex is a very enjoyable local pub, the food simple but well made and representing good value for money.
Further reviews: 08th May 2014