Icebergs

At the Bondi swimming club is Icebergs, a restaurant serving Italian influenced food in a setting with a stunning view over the beach. Tables are laid out so that most have a direct view over the sea, and on a sunny day like the one that coincided with my visit, the view was striking: I saw a pod of dolphins near the beach at one point, and apparently whales sometimes can be seen. Seafood is the obvious way to go, but a range of steaks (from Andrews Meat Industries) can be eaten as an alternative: a 300g wagyu rib eye would set you back AUD 106, for example.

The wine list prices reflect the setting. Tamar Ridge 2000 was AUD 66 for a wine that retails at AUD 21, Petaluma Riesling 2009 was a stiff AUD 148.5 for a wine you can find in the shops for AUD 29, while Katnook Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 was AUD 121 compared to a retail price of AUD AUD 31. As you move up the list examples included Trimbach Clos St Hune 2005 at a remarkably precise AUD 619.3 for a wine that retails at AUD 183, Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay 2008 at AUD 214.5 compared to a shop price of AUD 79, and Romanee Conti La Tache 2007 at AUD 3148.2 for a wine you can find for AUD 1,459.

Gambretti prawns (priced at AUD 30.8) tasted fresh and were simply cooked, garnished with lemon, an enjoyable start to the meal (13/20). The star was wild barramundi (AUD 64.9), pan-fried accurately and having excellent flavour; this is a fish I think has lovely taste when it is cooked properly, as it was here (15/20). As side dishes I tried a generous portion of decent matchstick fries (AUD 9.9), and a less good dish of Brussels sprouts, which were rather overcooked (11/20).

Service was friendly and efficient, and overall this was a very enjoyable way to spend a Sunday lunch. The food is simple but the seafood is of good quality and the view from the dining room is really remarkable; you do pay a premium for this, of course.