Michy’s is in a somewhat run-down part of town (upper east side), just on a main road. There is a little courtyard with a few seats, and a quite airy main dining room. The décor and upholstery is a little unusual, with its blue floor and bright colours reminding me a bit of a nursery, but each to his own. Chef Michelle Bernstein runs the kitchen, her husband David Martinez runs the front of house.
The wine list has a wide range, with some drinkable wines around $40, choices such as Chateau Simone 2000 from Provence at $125 for a wine that will cost you around $40 to buy, right up to Cheval Blanc 2001 at £800 compared to a retail price of around $273. Tuna tartare was simply presented, just with some crisps, but was nicely flavoured with ginger, spring onion, soy and a little chilli (13/20).
A filet mignon had excellent quality corn-fed beef, cooked to order and served with a garnish of a few prawns, some frisee lettuce and a dauphinoise made from celeriac rather than potato. The latter was an interesting idea, but the celeriac slices were a little firm in texture, but a demi-glace sauce made from the cooking juices had good taste and avoided the gloopiness than can easily occur with this (14/20).
Chocolate-filled beignets were a little soggy in texture, served with a pleasing passion fruit dip, which provided welcome acidic balance. Still, this was really only 12/20. Better was a taste of bread and butter pudding (13/20). Service was very good indeed; my French waiter (Gregory from Normandy) showed real interest in the customers, and possessed genuine charm. For me the cooking was between 13/20 and 14/20 overall, with a bill of $83 including three glasses of wine. It was a very pleasant meal, the overall experience helped considerably by the welcome of both the owner and my waiter.
Michelin-starred Royal Oak has a new chef, but the formula: very enjoyable food, is unchanged http://t.co/bUhMyfyjcz http://t.co/VnHeGkWAVt