I used to visit Houston regularly in the 1990s, and Ruggles, with its South Western American cuisine, was far and away the best place in town. The menu was extensive, and though there was a tendency to add one too many flavour to its dishes,this was generally kept in check and the strong execution and good ingredients overcome any reservations. Service was good, and the wine list excellent.
@Tweat_Up Not sure you have been doing it right. Try a JJ Prum Riesling or splash out on a Coche Dury or similar.