In the excruciatingly expensive and frankly disappointing Four Seasons Hotel, Seasons restaurant has all the hallmarks of hotel dining. The wood is dark, the lighting sombre, the waiters formal and rather over-present. The food was variable, with fairly classic dishes executed reasonably well, with some flashes of Modern American cooking also appearing in Mark Baker’s repertoire. However this was a lot of money (USD 140 a head or more) for what was essentially competent but fairly ordinary cooking. The wine list was excellent, though mark-ups were generally fierce. A Guigal Hermitage was the bargain pick, and there were some good Austrian dessert wines.
My weekly restaurant round-up is now published, covering Venice: http://t.co/N49RGg6m9o