In the excruciatingly expensive and frankly disappointing Four Season, Seasons has all the hallmarks of hotel dining. The wood is dark, the lighting sombre, the waiters formal and rather over-present. The food was variable, with fairly classic dishes executed reasonably well, with some flashes of Modern American cooking also appearing in Mark Baker’s repertoire. However this is a lot of money (USD 140 a head or more) for what is essentially competent but fairly ordinary cooking. The wine list was excellent, though nark-ups were generally fierce. A Guigal Hermitage was the bargain pick, and there were some good Austrian dessert wines.