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 Restaurant Review - Sukyibasi Jiro Ginza

   
Food Type Japanese
Food rating 6/10 (More information)
Address Tsukamoto Sogyo Building B1F
4-2-15 Ginza, Chou-ku
Tokyo
Japan
Phone Number +81 3 3535 3600
Price £152 a head (What I paid per head)
Average Price £152 (Average price per head for meal and house wine )
Last Visited May 2008
 
 
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My Review  
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This is in the basement of an office building near Ginza station.  There is a single wooden counter around which there are just ten tables. 

We had the usual range of sushi items, starting with flounder (which did not have a lot of taste but avoided chewiness) and a squid ("aori") which sadly was distinctly chewy.  Eniada or young yellowtail was better, at which point we moved on to the usual trio of tuna: naguro, partially fatty and fatty "oto".  These were excellent, though not a patch on the ones at Sushi Mizutani two days earlier. 

Kohado (a type of shad) was pleasant, as was the tasty horse mackerel that was in season.  "Shako" is a type of shrimp (mantis shrimp) that was very pleasant, as was salmon roe. Sea eel as the final savoury item was not as tasty as two others I had on this trip.  Finally the egg custard cake which traditionally finishes a sushi meal appeared. 

The temperature of the rice was correct (i.e. room temperature rather than fridge temperature), and reputedly they keep each fish at a slightly different temperature. The rice tastes more heavily of vinegar than some, but I gather this reflects the particular style of the sushi chef rather than it being objectively better or worse than a more lightly vinegared style.  

 I was surprised at the gulf in the taste of the fish between here and Sushi Mitzutani: there was clear blue water between the two sushi places that Michelin gave three stars to in 2008 in my view.  Hence on the food I have scored this 6/10.

The service was another matter.  This is a restaurant that you can only make a reservation at if you are eating with a fluent Japanese speaker.  The person I went with has lived in Japan for six years and teaches cookery; he also felt the sushi to be good but not the best he had eaten.   However from the moment we sat down, the old gentleman who runs the place, and the chef who served us, regarded us with barely concealed contempt.  They spent their time glowering at us throughout.  The fish came at a very fast pace, and when at one point Stella stopped for a few moments towards the end and explained (via our translator) that she just needed a moment, they just took her sushi away regardless.  "The customer is always right" is not a concept that has caught on at this place. 

At the end I bowed to the owner as I gather one is supposed to do (despite our poor treatment), and thanked him in my poor Japanese and he looked away and sneered rather than acknowledge me.  This was literally the only example I have ever encountered in Japan of rude service, whether at high end dining places or the cheapest and simplest cafe, and it seems to me wholly unacceptable whatever the culture.  It would appear that they really don't want foreigners to come here, in which case it would have seemed logical for them to decline being in the Michelin (as a few places in Tokyo did) and remain with their local regulars.  Instead they seem happy to take gaijin money, but not to manage even the semblance of courtesy.   One other person who has eaten here this year (an American food writer) told a similar story, incidentally. 

The bill, by the way, is absurd JPY 30,000 per person for the food alone, which was almost twice that of the vastly superior Sushi Mitzutani (also 3 star Michelin) and was the most expensive food bill of the entire trip.

The inaccessibility of this place may in itself seem a paradoxical attraction to some people, but it is really not worth the effort in my opinion. 

 

   
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09/04/2009 - Jo Rodin (Norway)
A rough experience at Jiro after a great experience at Mizutani - much in line with your comments. We did not mind hiring a guide to join us (as we were indeed required to come with a Japanese). At 31.500 yen per person (incl tea...) it is quite hefty in price, and by far the most expensive three star I have been to - on a per minute basis! Mr Jiro was apparently eager to have us out of our seats quickly, as there were some regulars coming in. In spite of our efforts to slow him down, he managed to serve us 20 bites in 32 minutes; i.e. about 1000 yen per minute...We were then allowd 16 minutes at a table, to relax with another cup of tea - as his regulars poured in. Now, all of this is liveable, if his efforts and serving had been top notch. While the service as such was more than good, the food was not. Mr Jiro did not seem very 'into' what he was doing (as compared to e g Mizutani), the rice was definetely not perfect, and Mr Jiro was much too liberal/casual on his use of wasabi and soya sauce - effectively killing the original taste of each fish. Our guide (who was there for the first time) agreed that the sushi was not first class - far from it. All in all a place not woth visiting, based on this one experience. Spend your money at Mizutani!
28/03/2009 - K (Hong Kong)
Just would like to inform you that as much as I normally enjoy reading your reviews of many restaurants in the world - tonight was the 1st time I've read the Japanese section and with some of the mistakes contained in this report, I have to agree with some others that may be you're still not 100% understanding Japanese food yet, even though I do trust your tastebud generally. :) This shop is called Sukiyabashi Jiro Ginza, not Sukyibasi Hiro Ginza. Squid is actually quite chewy. I assume you mean Aori Ika, not just Aori? I've never heard of Eniada being a version of Yellowtail either, but stand corrected. Only heard of Hiramasa, Hamachi, Buri, Kan-buri, Kanpachi, etc. Red Tuna is Maguro not Naguro, the fattiest part is called Otoro not Oto. Kohado should be Kohada. Not that spelling really matters but perhaps accuracy in totality can be more convincing! I'm disgusted by the service level of this restaurant though.
16/10/2008 - Lukas (Japan)
Your comments on the food and the service are completely spot-on. The criticism of the food, by the way, also reflects what many people in Japan think. Sushi Mizutani scores much better on Japanese foodie blogs than Jiro does (as do many other, non-Michelin-starred sushi restaurants, or Michelin starred sushi restaurants like Kanesaka). I have no idea what possessed the inspectors to give Jiro 3 stars. The treatment of foreigners is shameful and I will certainly not bother again. Perversely, some people seem to be gluttons for punishment and admonish other foreigners on foodie websites who dare to complain about such treatment.
08/09/2008 - zweitu (USA)
Sounds to me like you treat Jiro like Nobu, or any other places where "customers are always right". Like a exclusive courtesan, chefs like Jiro please only the customers in the knowing, gaijin included. In America we have a name for them: "sushi Nazi". At least you were treated better than Charlize Theron - she was asked not to come back at one of these establishments. Going to a sushi place in Japan could be an intimidating experience. Someone even wrote a 13-segment series on how to win the duel with your sushi chef.
30/07/2008 - iain bannatyne (japan)
I have been to Jiro a couple of times and agree the service to gai-jin can be absurd and the pricing is hard to understand. His son runs a similary priced restuarant in Roppongi Hills, albeit the service is not quite so harsh.
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