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Acetaia

Nymphenburgstrasse 215, Munich, Germany

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Munich has a large Italian population and Acetiai serves Italian food in a quiet setting opposite some parkland. The room itself is rather cosy, with various display bottles of wine around the walls. A starter of a meatball and a cup of cauliflower and carrot soup was pleasant, though the soup was rather too thick in texture (making it hard to drink out of the cup provided) while the meatball seemed to me rather bland (13/20). I started with paccheri pasta with small gamberi prawns, and was troubled that the pasta itself was chewy and hard, though the prawns themselves were fine (12/20). 

A house speciality of ravioli of pecorino with marjoram and 25 year old balsamic also had disturbingly chewy pasta, suggesting that my experience was not an accident (12/20). Spring chicken was much better, served with a few turned carrots and potatoes and the cooking juices (15/20). Millefeuille of chocolate with strawberry was quite nice, though the layers were a little hard (14/20). Coffee was excellent and service friendly. The wine list had fine choices such as Jermann "Dreams" for a bargain EUR 80.

However, the nice service and wines can hardly take away from the fact that this is an Italian restaurant that cannot cook pasta. The very first time I ever cooked pasta at home it tasted better than this, which is hardly encouraging.  I am baffled that it gets a Michelin star, as the cooking seems to me a long way below this standard.

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