Ah Yat Harbor View

iSquare Mall, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong, China

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Ah Yat moved to its current location in late 2009. It is on the 29th floor of the iSquare shopping mall in the busy Nathan Road. To get to the restaurant, take the long escalator into the mall from street level, walk along to the tower lift lobby and queue an inordinate amount of time for the hopelessly inadequate lift service; you may want to bring something to read at this point. The dining room itself lives up to its name, with floor to ceiling windows with a spectacular view.

Several menus offer a wide range of Cantonese dishes. The wine list rather engagingly starts with the most prestigious, expensive wines and works backwards. Petrus 2001 at HK$ 19,888 is actually a touch below its current market price. At more modest levels, Albert Bichot 2012 was HK$ 560 for a wine that retails at HK$ 212, and Casa Apostolle Cosa Apalta 2009 was HK$ 1,380 compared to a shop price of HK$ 760.

Steamed barbecued pork bun was light and fluffy, with slightly sweet and tender pork inside (14/20). A prawn dumpling resembled cheung fun but was not labelled as such, at least not on the English menu; this was quite impressive, the dumpling coating very delicate, the prawns inside carefully cooked (15/20).

Sichuan prawns were cooked through properly and were only a little spicy, served with bell peppers and crispy seaweed (14/20). Turbot was rather disappointing, cooked accurately enough but very bland in flavour (at best 13/20). Singapore noodles had good texture and had a little curry bite to them (14/20). 

Service was amiable but rather disorganised. Dishes arrive in a seemingly random sequence, and our noodles were whisked away to a separate side table after initially being served, but getting more of them required a level of attention seeking that would have embarrassed Michael Winner. The bill came to HK$ 1,279, which works out at £50 a head, with just tea and fruit juice to drink. If you came for dinner and shared a bottle of modest wine then your bill might come to around £70 a head. The food was fine, but I have no idea why this has two Michelin stars, or indeed one.

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