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Akelarre

paseo del Padre Orcolaga 56, San Sebastian, Spain

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A spectacular hillside vista overlooking the ocean means that the best time to visit here is either at lunch or on an evening with a late sunset e.g. in late June. The décor is modern, with the dining room on two levels and a separate bar.  Breads were pleasant rolls but may not have been home-made (15/20). For amuse-bouche there was an excellent fresh sardine in an apple sauce (19/20) and a much odder cold dish of pasta and local cheese (14/20). To start with a pair of scallops with an outer shell of artichokes were excellent (17/20) while a traditional fish soup was very well made, with superb aioli (16/20). Baked lobster with French beans was delicately cooked (18/20) while tuna seared lightly was served with a sauce of local yellow pepper and, oddly, a fried egg (17/20). 

Carrot cake with a carrot sorbet was ordinary (14/20) while local cheeses were in good condition if generally uninspiring (15/20). There was an elaborate menu of coffees and teas, and wine prices were absurdly low to London eyes – Vega Sicilia Unico 1981 (a great year) was just GBP 100, which is below retail price in London, supposing you could find it.

This was a nice meal, but Akelarre's elevation to three Michelin stars in 2007 is bewildering to me based on this meal.

 

Further reviews: 25th May 2013

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