Editor's note: Tony Fleming has since left Angler. Gary Foulkes, previously head chef at The Square, has been in charge of the kitchens since May 2016.
This was my second meal at Angler, the flagship restaurant at the South Place hotel. A pair of cheese gougeres as nibbles were very nicely made (16/20). Shellfish velouté was a further amuse bouche, with a little sausage of crab as well as lobster, the stock having intense flavour (16/20). Seafood raviolo (£13.50) was enjoyable, with tender lobster amongst the ingredients used in the filling, the pasta well made (15/20). Langoustine and lobster cocktail (£18.50) with brown shrimps and baby lettuce was a sophisticated take on the classic prawn cocktail dish, the gem lettuce crisp, the sauce well-made and the shellfish tender (16/20).
Roast halibut (£22.50) with brown shrimp, capers, butter and parsley was less successful, the halibut slightly overcooked, and rather a lot of butter being used, though the capers did provide some contrast here; the dish was also a little salty (13/20). My main course was better, loin of pork (£22.50) with ravioli of pig cheek, served with asparagus and morels with a truffle duxelle. The loin of pork was pleasant but the little ravioli was lovely, the pork filling inside well seasoned and full of flavour. The asparagus and morels were carefully cooked and the truffle duxelle provided an extra texture and flavour (16/20). On the side triple cooked chips were good though still could have been crisper (15/20), whilst green beans were cooked accurately but were swimming in butter (14/20).
Hazelnut cake (£7) with salted caramel was served with lime and vanilla sorbet. I thought that the sorbet worked very well, its texture good and flavour refreshing, though the hazelnut cake seemed merely pleasant, bordering on dry (14/20).
Service was very good indeed, friendly and attentive. The bill came to £117 a head, albeit with some good wine. Water was £4 a bottle. Overall I found the meal a little less successful than my first visit, though still with much to like about it: an appealing menu with dishes designed to please rather than challenge, with some skill and care in the cooking marred only by one technical error with the fish dish. As an overall experience Angler is a most enjoyable place to have a meal.Book