Bonham’s little restaurant, open at lunch-time (and now also one evening a week), is a refreshing change from the now typical over-priced Mayfair openings aimed at separating rich foreigners from their money. I have written previously about the lovely wine list here, which not only has good growers but is fairly priced, something as rare as hen’s teeth in central London. An example from the excellent wine list was the gorgeous 2008 Francoise Buisson Mersault Charmes at £90 which is hard to find but is barely more than that price retail if you can track in down.
Nibbles today comprised gougeres with well-made choux pastry and plenty of cheese flavour, along with squid ink crisps with yoghurt, dill and trout roe. Sourdough bread here is made from scratch n the kitchen and has excellent texture (16/20).
A courgette flower was steamed and stuffed with crab, flavourful bull’s heart tomato and crab and basil bisque foam. This was a light, refreshing summer dish (16/20).
Challans duck was accompanied by slow-cooked confit of the duck leg, along with baby beetroot, cherry and almond puree, with endive providing a useful bitter flavour balance (15/20).
Raspberry “millefeuille” came with tuiles rather than puff pastry, alongside crème Chantilly, balsamic vinegar and elderflower sorbet. The fruit had good flavour and the dish had a nice balance of flavours (15/20).
The bill came to £119 a head, but that was with plenty of good wine. A typical price per head with modest wine would be £65, which is very fair given the high standard of ingredients and culinary skill on display.