Bull and Last

I have written previously about the history of The Bull and Last and its wine selection. The dining room has reasonably large tables that are not too tightly packed, though the hard surfaces mean that the noise levels are high, even on this weekday lunchtime.  

At this latest meal I started with pan-fried king scallops (£20) with Jerusalem artichoke puree, pistachio picada (which just means chopped) and chorizo, topped with leaves. The scallops were rather small though at least had some level of sweetness, and were cooked well enough. The earthy flavour of Jerusalem artichoke worked quite well as a contrast, and the chorizo brought a touch of spice, the pistachio adding an extra texture (13/20). Tempura of courgette flower was simply presented but well executed, the batter reasonably delicate if not at the feather-light level you would see in Japan. 

My main course was pappardelle pasta with shorthorn beef ragu and a sprinkling of grated Parmesan. A green salad on the side was dressed properly and there was plenty of it, the acidity of the dressing providing some balance to the richness of the ragu, which had a reasonable depth of flavour, while the pasta itself was carefully cooked and had good texture (14/20). Haddock and chips appeared to be on form too, similar in level to the one I had here last time.  

For dessert, mango sorbet was made from scratch in the kitchen by an Italian lady called Frederica, and was genuinely good, the texture smooth and there being plenty of mango flavour (a strong 14/20). The coffee was from Clipstone, a speciality roaster in East London, and was good. Service was excellent, and the bill came to £62 per person, with just beer to drink. This is roughly what you might expect to pay for a typical order. The Bull and Last is well located, almost on the edge of Hampstead Heath, and has an appealing menu and very attentive and friendly service.

Further reviews: 26th Apr 2023 | 15th Feb 2023 | 12th Oct 2014 | 17th Oct 2011