Can Fabes

Saint Joan 6, San Celoni, Spain

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The food shows remarkably assured technique in harmony with the best of local ingredients. Sadly the bargain basement wine list has been updated for the modern world, though mark-ups are still very fair by London standards; the superb Alion is not on the list but is nonetheless available if you ask the wine waiter. Torres Mas La Plana is available in several vintages and is about twice retail price in London. I would originally (1990s) have ranked the food here in the upper quartile of 3 star Michelin restaurants I have visited anywhere, though my most recent meal was not as good as earlier visits. 

In October 2006 I went for the “surprise” menu, which was as follows.

Razor clams with cauliflower
Langoustine with local mushrooms (oui de reze)
Lobster with a mild curry sauce
Sea bream with red wine sauce
Baby goat
Peach soup
Chocolate soufflé

A treat was to have a glass of 1851 Solera sherry, which is made rather like a Pedro Ximines sherry. The home-made breads are excellent here, and on the food front the highlights were a perfect langoustine and superb local mushrooms, which worked very well together. It was also impossible to fault the chocolate soufflé, while the lobster was also very tender. I wondered whether it was quite as good tonight though as on previous visits. Still well worth trying!


Further reviews: 01st Apr 2008 | 02nd Mar 2003 | 25th May 1999

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