Editor's note: this restaurant kept its three Micheln stars up until the February 2015 guide, when it was demoted.
This restaurant also has rooms, and indeed provided the best room (number 21) of our summer trip around France in 1996. The hotel is in two parts. The reception and dining room and some bedrooms are connected by an underground passage lined with Roman flagstones to the remaining bedrooms, breakfast room, swimming pool and sauna, which are across a road. The breakfast room and our bedroom overlooked the river, whereas the dining room is on the other side of the road, away from the river. The room was vast, with a huge stone fireplace, a balcony overlooking the river, a large bed and bathroom including a proper shower with body jets, a Bang & Olufsen TV and a lovely Chinese rug.
The dining room had pillars, modern paintings, modern sculptures and overlooks a tiny garden at the back. Nibbles were marinated salmon with herbs and Chablis (17/20), and scrambled egg with duck liver (18/20). Bread was either brown crunchy bread (18/20) or white (also 18/20). To start, Breton lobster was roasted with girolles and served with petit pois, sweet garlic and Szechuan pepper (well hidden) and sadly the lobster was rather overcooked (16/20 only). Langoustines were better, as they were tenderly cooked and served with a wide array of vegetables: baby carrots, onions, spring onions, broad beans, peas, toasted sesame seeds and asparagus, all in a spicy dressing (19/20).
I had a whole duckling roasted with fruit (redcurrants, juniper, cherries), served with green vegetables, spinach, broad beans, spring onion and carrots, and a little mixed leaf salad (20/20). My wife had roast cod with finely chopped Mediterranean vegetables in olive oil, with mashed potatoes, three slices of tomato and some deep fried sage (18/20). Cheeses tried were: chevre (18/20), a St Marcellin (17/20), Munster (18/20), Epoisses (18/20), Brie (19/20), St Nectaire (18/20), Brillat-Savarin (18/20) and a local peppery cheese (10/20). This was offered with a lovely white fruit bread (18/20) and fresh whole walnuts (19/20).
For dessert, I had passion fruit soufflé (19/20), while my wife had vanilla cream, caramelised mango, mango sorbet, wild strawberries and a mango sauce (18/20). There were also some lychee, strawberry and passion fruit sorbets, which were all magnificent (20/20). Coffee was 18/20, and was accompanied by lemon macaroon (18/20), fruit sponge (18/20), tart with raspberry, strawberry and pineapple (18/20), chocolate cup with chocolate truffle and cherry in Kirsch (19/20), three types of chocolate (18/20), and a caramel chocolate (16/20). We drank Le Forest Chablis at FF 235, the room cost FF 1,950, the Meal FF 2,034 and the total bill for two FF 4204. Service was very fine, with a friendly waiter, and the second menu duly had prices. A lovely meal in a pretty location.