The best dish sampled was some excellent chorizo (14/20) which avoided the chewiness that so often afflicts this sausage in London restaurants. Pata negra (£13) was good, but not at all as good as the perfect version from Joselito I had at Cambio de Tercio recently. My dining companion, who is sufficiently well versed in pata negra to have a whole leg sitting in his kitchen right now, felt the main problem in this case was that the ham was sliced too thin. I find a plate of ham, however good, very hard to mark, so I am not going to attempt to; it was certainly of good provenance and was enjoyable, but as I say it can be even better than this. Slices of duck breast were pleasant and correctly cooked (12/20).
Sourdough bread with aioli has been mocked elsewhere for its cost (after all, this is just a bit of toast) but used good bread and, which is perhaps the point, came with a really excellent aioli (13/20). Salt cod croquettes were crisp and tasty, served with a not very spicy (13/20) Romesco sauce. Mackerel with a quince, apple and pear aioli was a couple of flavours too many for me (11/20). A similar issue for me happened with wild chicory with grilled blood orange and salsa verde. Most of the tapa dishes are £3.25 - £7 each.
The wine list is quite pricey, though it does have a couple of cheap options; we had the excellent Fagus at £45 (which retails at about £16). There is a long selection of fine wines from Spain and Italy for those wishing to splash out. Service was friendly at all times despite the bustle, but the no reservation policy means Dehesa is probably best tried for lunch unless you don’t mind waiting an indeterminate time for a table.Book