I have written several times about the Dysart, so please see my previous reviews for general background, more about the chef and former Roux scholar Kenneth Culhane and the wine list. This latest meal was a leisurely lunch, beginning with a plate of canapes. Pressed cucumber with Japanese lime was harmless enough but didn’t really add much to me. Better was a nicely made Parmesan shortbread with truffle, but the best two canapes were the two cooked ones. A fishcake of cured cod with Japanese lime was packed with flavour, and best of all was a pork kromesci with rhubarb chutney, where the acidity of the rhubarb nicely balanced the richness of the meat. A further nibble was confit pork belly with Vietnamese dressing and gooseberry, which was pleasant and had a good, slightly spicy dressing that cut through the fattiness of the pork belly (average 15/20).
Orkney scallops came with spinach and chicory and a jus tranche. The scallops had good natural sweetness, which went well with the bitterness of the chicory (15/20). We had an extra course today, the fabulous oxtail risotto, which has become almost as much a signature dish here as the mackerel. The risotto is made using Acquerello aged carnaroli rice, and the juices of the meat seep into the rice and add a depth of richness that is simply glorious (18/20).
I enjoyed my aged Challans duck, served in two forms. The breast was cooked pink, and the leg was made into a deeply flavoured ragout, which for me was the star element of the dish. The meat was accompanied by tomatoes and sliced olives with a sauce of Banyuls wine and cherry (16/20). High quality strawberries from Yorkshire came with a delicate chamomile meringue and a clotted cream sorbet that went well with the fruit (15/20). Coffee was from Drury.
The bill came to £98 a head, though this was with an extra course; a more typical cost per person would be around £80. Three courses today were priced at £40.50 for the food. Service, led by owner Barny Taylor, was friendly and professional.Book