Foliage

Below are notes from a meal in March 2007 in which the tasting menu was taken.

I had the tasting menu. Pan fried "west coast" scallops consisted of two very fresh, very well timed slices of scallop, served with a cep mushroom and a couple of walnuts and a little pickled pear: the scallops were very good indeed, and the cep was also excellent (17/20). A "duo of foie gras" was perhaps over-complicated. The foie gras was served as a light and creamy mousse, as well as flavouring an apple jelly Bavarois, the mousse offered with shredded cabbage leaves, pain d’epice and a little salad of apple and celery. The acidity of the apple was a good balance to the richness of the fois gras, but for me there were more flavours than necessary; however the actual foie gras mousse had extremely light texture and delicate taste (16/20).

Pan fried fillet of sea bass was very well timed, served with a roast almond puree, a little block of butternut squash with small pieces of chorizo and endive with a sweet and sour dressing. Again this was perhaps too fancy for its own good, but it was had to argue with the fine fish and excellent technique (17/20). Venison was from Yorkshire and served as slices of fillet cooked pink, with a wild mushroom "pain perdu", excellent red cabbage and a puree of smoked artichoke (16/20). Dessert was a cylinder of white chocolate encasing a passion fruit sorbet, served with natural yoghurt mousse and a mango and basil salad. I am unconvinced about the harmony of this dish, but the sorbet had good flavour and pleasing texture (15/20). Service was very attentive and better than on prior visits.

Further reviews: 01st Apr 2009 | 03rd Mar 2003