Editor's note: the restaurant closed in January 2015 for a major refurbishment, with a planned reopening in late 2015. It is not entirely clear at the time of writing whether the restaurant will re-open in its current form.
Please be aware that Dieter Muller handed over the culinary reins to Nils Henkel in 2008, who was sous chef here under Dieter Muller from 1997 to 2003, and then chef to cuisine from 2003 to 2008. The restaurant also changed its name to reflect this chef handover; it should be observed that the restaurant retained its three Michelin stars in 2009 through 2011, though it was demoted in 2012. The notes below are from my visit in the era of Dieter Muller as head chef.
This is a lovely old inn with extensive grounds and gardens and generous sized rooms. The dining room is in a conservatory with views onto an extensive garden. A nice touch was the use of multiple candles on each table, which made a pretty effect as the sun went down, and several sets of flowers per table also. Amuse-bouche was a rather ordinary foccacia with beef tomato puree (16/20) but then a fine lobster gelee (18/20), a little veal in pastry (19/20) and a good watercress soup (18/20). The bread was excellent, with hazelnut, onion, rye, white brown and tomato (18/20). The wine list was a huge 52 pages and not cheap, but service was once again superb (a common feature of German 3 star places). My wife had aromatised vegetables, served in a glass dish and cooked with plenty of Perigord truffles; these were fine but really only 16/20. Much better was gossamer-delicate langoustine tempura with a well-balanced langoustine mousse (20/20).
I had sea bass with a crayfish crust for my main course, resting on gnocchi, spinach and mash with a pleasant “red mustard” sauce (19/20). My wife had two fillets of turbot covered with fine celery slices, on a bed of finely chopped tomatoes with a saffron sauce and a raviolo of lobster(18/20). We skipped cheese and went for a dessert of apricots: a cake with apricot compote, an apricot mousse with a raspberry glaze and a chocolate sponge base and an ice cream of apricot, lime and thyme (17/20). The other dessert tried was a cherry plate: a soup of black cherries, sour cherries in a gratin and a chocolate cherry mousse (18/20). Coffee was very good (19/20) though the petit fours were rather ordinary (an overdone tuile, raspberry in aspic, a mango tart, chocolates) at around 16/20. Overall 19/20, with a bill for two of EUR 285 for two, again quite fair compared to London.