In the 2009 Michelin guide Heinz Winkler lost his third star, which surprised many. Heinz Winkler was the youngest ever three star chef (in the UK the food press often claims, wrongly, that the youngest 3 star chef was Marco Pierre Whiite) until in 2002 this title passed to Calandre's Massimiliano Alajmo. Winkler was awarded his third star in 1981 at the age of just 32 as head chef of Tantris. He trained in Germany and briefly with Paul Bocuse before moving to Tantris in 1978.He became head chef and after earning three Michelin stars for Tantris opened his own restaurant in 1991.This gained three Michelin stars in its own right in 1993/94, then from 2000 until it was controversially demoted to two stars.
The Residenz is a relaxing establishment in a pretty Bavarian village, with an attractive view of nearby mountains. For a very fair (by UK standards) EUR 250 you can stay in a maisonette apartment on two floors with a secluded garden and sun-loungers set up. The food that I ate here was perhaps the best I had tried in all of Germany, no slight recommendation given just how good the top German restaurants are. The dining room was decorated imaginatively with a series of murals giving the impression of a countryside setting, and tables were generously spaced.
Amuse-bouche on the first of two meals we had here over a weekend set the standard: a stunning yellow pepper mousse, a little marinated salmon laced with ginger and sublime diced vegetables laced with a hint of spice and encased in pastry (a sort of upmarket onion bhajee). A starter of scallops wrapped in lasagne was very fine, as was a whole sea bass cooked in a salt shell. The sea bass had fabulous flavour, served with a fine cream and chive sauce.
A whole duckling was cooked perfectly and filleted at the table, served with a finely judged balsamic dressing. All the dishes tried during the weekend were to a very high standard indeed e.g. a fabulous dish of turbot through to simple pan-fried and salted cep slices. Cheese was in excellent condition, and if one was being picky then the (relative) weakness would be desserts. A Grand Marnier parfait with orange slices was excellent, as were “tears” of chocolate, essentially fried fondant spheres served in a biscuit case with a coconut ice cream, but they did not quite match the exceptional standard of the starters and main courses. Petit-fours were excellent, including a fine mini lemon tart, a passion fruit praline and fine usual chocolate and nut concoctions.
The wine list was extensive and whilst expensive by German standards was a bargain compared to London. A fabulous 1990 J.J. Prum Auslese was just EUR 57, for example. Service is excellent, with the generally OK prices slightly spoilt by excessively expensive mineral water (EUR 7.50 a bottle). Overall this was a very fine place indeed to eat and stay.
Further reviews: 10th Jun 2014