88 Worship Street, London, EC2A 2DQ, United Kingdom

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Chef interview

Tong Chee Hwee is head chef of HKK, and overall executive chef of the large Hakkasan group. He was the original head chef of the Hanway Place branch of the London Hakkasan, the first one of the group.  

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In the evening HKK offers only a lengthy tasting menu.  At lunch, however, there are numerous menu choices, with set menus from 4 courses at £28.50 through to 8 courses at £48 up to £15 courses at £98., as well as a shorter five course duck menu (also at £48). 

As ever, the dim sum selection was impressive: wild mushroom puff, lobster roll, scallop dumpling and chicken dumpling. The dumplings themselves were very light indeed, and the quality of the ingredients used was much higher than run-of-the-mill Chinese restaurants (17/20).  

Cherry wood roast Peking duck from the à la carte menu comprises a little piece of the delicate skin, the meat and a pre-wrapped pancake roll. The duck used here is of much higher quality than places in Chinatown and this shows: the pancakes were thin and delicate, the plum sauce superb, the overall effect excellent (17/20).

Canadian scallops (£29) with sesame seeds had large, sweet scallops that were lightly cooked but they were just a touch colder when served than would be ideal (15/20). Better were delicate wagyu beef puffs (£9.50) with very fine puffs that melted pleasingly on the tongue (17/20).

Wagyu beef (£30) was seared with soy and jasmine tea and served with yam. The beef was carefully cooked and the soy worked well with it, though it was perhaps not the most exciting dish (16/20). Singapore noodles (£11.50) were a world apart from those encountered in Chinatown. Here the texture was extremely delicate, the noodles subtly spiced (17/20). 

Service was silky smooth as ever here. The bill came to £75 a head with just tea and soft drinks. Of course this is hardly cheap, but the standard of the ingredients is far higher than normally used in Chinese restaurants in London. There are lots of appealing dishes and the standard of skill in the kitchen, as shown by the dim sum and the noodles, is high.


Further reviews: 18th Apr 2015 | 18th Oct 2013

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