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Hostellerie Jerome

Comte de Cessole, La Turbie, Monaco

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This 2 star Michelin restaurant is situated in a pretty mediaeval village (La Turbie) on a hill above Monaco. An amuse-bouche was a pithivier of duck, which had excellent pastry and enjoyable taste (17/20). A starter of pasta with foie gras featured warm foie gras that was pleasantly firm in texture and of high quality, with delicate lasagne pasta scented with black truffles, along with good quality asparagus (16/20). My main course of roast lobster with petit pois and macaroni pasta was less successful, the peas and pasta competent but the lobster seriously chewy and not tasting very fresh. My companion’s lobster was even worse (14/20 at best).

Cheese was variable, with a good Camembert but a slightly chalk St Maure, and a very poor Comte though a nice Gorgonzola (16/20 for the cheese on average). Best was dessert, with a superb lemon tart with fine pastry and excellent filling with a good balance of sweetness and acidity, served with a lemon sorbet served in a hollowed-out lemon. The wild strawberry millefeuille was also top drawer, with excellent pastry and superb wild strawberries (19/20 for dessert). Overall, though, this seemed only like a one star rather than a two star place (except for dessert).  A local food expert who lives in Monaco says that he has experienced quite a lot of variety in standard here, and assures me that the kitchen can perform better. Of course, off-days are more forgivable if you do not have two Michelin stars and are charging around £100 a head for lunch.

 

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  • Jammi

    The food is excellent, but the service quality is not as good as it should be. A dinner takes more than 4 hours from 7.45 to 11.30 and is still going on

  • ROBERT SALMOND

    The worst French restaurant I have ever eaten in, the food was well below average in quality and far too much duplication on each course of the tasting menu. The service was over the top and I would not return. Price including wine for TWO people was £250.

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