Editor's note: this restaurant closed at the end of April 2018.
This is the second branch of Killer Tomato, which is named after an obscure movie (see the review of the original restaurant for details). It opened in October 2017, the first incarnation of the brand being in Shepherds Bush. The essential format at both branches is the same – tacos at modest prices in a casual setting. The menus vary a little to fit in with the tastes of the local population: it turns out that there are more vegetarians in Portobello Road than Shepherds Bush, for example. The menu items change monthly, at least in part. There are a couple of bottles of wine at £19.95 amd Estrella beer at £4.25. Just as at the original branch, there is no cash taken, only credit cards, this saving the restaurant from bothering with a safe. At this branch the kitchen is tucked away rather than being in view of the diners, and 34 diners can be seated at any one time.
Today I tried three different tacos. Crumbed anchovy came with crispy bacon and a Mexican take on Ceaser dressing. This was the least good of the three, the saltiness of the anchovy dominating the other flavours. Better was tempura aubergine with courgette and raisin jam, the flavour balance better. Best was red chorizo with apple sauce and chilli-lime salt, the acidity of the apple working well with the meat, and the hint of chilli just adding a gentle bite (13/20 overall). I also enjoyed a pair of tostados (toasted tortillas). On one was tequila-cured salmon with crème fraiche and dill and pickled cucumber. This combination of flavours is pretty classical, and the tostados itself had good texture. Even better was butternut squash tostados with coconut and coriander and, it turned out, coriander and a lively amount of red chilli. I was worried that this might be too sweet due to the squash, but the punch of the chilli carried all before it (13/20).
The bill came to £15.95 without any alcohol. If you had wine then a typical cost per person might come to about £26. The food here may be simple but it is better made that at just about any of the Mexican restaurants I have tried in London touting their authentic Mexican credentials. Here they make no such claims, but just serve really good tacos.