A meal in February 2013 began with nibbles of fried spheres of salt cod, with reasonable texture and tasting properly of the salt cod filling (5/10). Bread was from the Flourish bakery, and the brown sourdough was particularly good, having an excellent crust (5/10). A starter of scallops came with beurre noisette pear, hazelnut, Swiss chard and roast chicken skin. The scallops were carefully timed and the crisp chicken skin offered a textural contrast, but the pear did not bring as much acidity to the dish as it might have done (5/10). Rillettes of mackerel with smoked eel, sweet mustard, pickled onions, dill and rye was a successful dish, the balance between the dish elements good, the taste of the eel and mackerel coming through well (6/10).
Fillet of sea bream came with chanterelles, curly kale, winter truffle “pesto” and crown prince squash. The fish was excellent, precisely cooked and having good flavour, the kale retaining its texture and the squash puree not too sweet (6/10). Wood pigeon came with red and golden beetroot, pearl barley and a garnish of bacon. The pigeon was cooked well enough but this particular pigeon breast was a touch chewy in nature, though the dish was well designed, with the beetroot and barley proving a good accompaniment (4/10). On the side, ratte potatoes and sprouting broccoli were accurately cooked (5/10).
For dessert, hazelnut parfait was served with chocolate-soaked brioche and salt caramel ice cream, garnished with praline and lime. The ice cream had good texture, the hazelnut parfait plenty of flavour, but the brioche could have had more chocolate flavour, and a little more lime as balance would not have gone amiss (4/10). Better was an excellent passion fruit posset with lime and pomegranate, Clementine sherbet and a little meringue. The posset was carefully balanced, the fruit and sugar in harmonious proportions, and the sherbet added a hint of sharpness (6/10). Service was very good indeed, friendly and efficient.Book