This was my third visit to the wine bar run by the iconic Parisian restaurant Taillevent. The room is smart though tables are certainly packed in quite tightly, with a display of wine bottles as the centrepiece. The wines here are a key feature, as I have written about previously. There are 110 by the glass (hence the name) listed on the fold-out menu as well as a separate list by the bottle, which you are only brought if you ask for it specifically.
Green vegetable risotto (£9) was well made, the consistency of the rice good and its flavour pleasing even with a vegetable rather than chicken stock (14/20). Chicken with foie gras and supreme sauce was garnished with a thin sliver of fried Savoy cabbage (£26). The sauce was very good, as was the garnish, though there was not much foie gras, and the chicken was merely pleasant rather than truly impressive. The origin of the bird was unclear, but it was clearly not from Bresse or the Landes (just about 14/20).
Grand Marnier soufflé (£9) was a little disappointing given the generally high standards of the pastry section here. It was certainly competent, but the texture could have been lighter and fluffier, the flavour more intense (14/20). This was a perfectly decent soufflé, but the pastry chef here can do better based on my previous visits, as illustrated by the lovely financier that came with the coffee.
Service was very capable, the staff attentive and professional. The bill tonight came to £130 a head, but that was with some excellent wine. If you ordered more modestly then a typical cost per head would be considerably lower, at around £80. This was the least good of the meals I have eaten here, I think mainly due to what I happened to order this time, but it was still a very pleasant experience.