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Malabar Beyond India

2/40 Tuwharetoa Street, Taupo, New Zealand

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This restaurant is located in central Taupo in a little parade of other restaurants and businesses, in what in America would be called a strip mall. The owners are actually Nepalese, though the menu was mostly in north Indian territory. There were a few wines, such as Church Road Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay at NZ$ 33 compared to its retail price of NZ$17. Tiger beer was NZ7.50.

After some popadoms and pickles I began with a trio of chicken tikka styles. One was malai, one a classic tikka and the other with a coriander marinade. The meat itself was nicely cooked and avoided drying out, and the dish was quite attractively presented with a little salad (13/20). Papri chaat was served in individual bite sized pieces, with onion and tomato mixed in with the sev, flavoured with tamarind chutney, garnished with a curl of carrot and coriander leaf (12/20).

A main course Himalayan curry had chicken in a quite spicy sauce, along with chicken legs that had been marinated in spices and then fried (12/20). Saag paneer was also enjoyable, the spinach carefully cooked, the paneer having good texture, the dish quite spicy (13/20). Dhal makhani was also a good version of the breed, in no way watery, the lentils retaining their texture well (13/20). Naan bread was less good, being overly buttery and consequently a touch soggy (11/20).

The waiters were friendly, and I was impressed with the speed at which they brought additional beer on request - just seconds elapsed from asking for a beer to it appearing on the table. This may seem a small thing, but not many restaurants get this right, and it is frustrating to wait for minutes on end for your drink. The bill came to NZ$62 (£33) per person, and due to the very generous portions we could easily have spent less if we had ordered fewer dishes; there was plenty of food left over. Overall I was pleasantly surprised by Malabar Beyond India. This restaurant would be somewhere I would be happy to return to if it was in London, and I wasn't expecting somewhere of this calibre in the sleepy holiday town of Taupo.

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