Editor's note: Jess Dunford Wood left the Mall Tavern in the summer of 2013 to cook at Parlour in Kensal Rise.
The Mall Tavern has been in its current ownership for about a year now, with chef Jesse Dunford Wood, who trained at assorted establishments including Gidleigh Park and Marque in Sydney, was a sous chef at Kensington Place and was recently involved with the Dean Street Town House. The menu is gloriously retro British, with Chicken Kiev and Arctic Roll amongst the choices.
On my second visit here both the pork pie and the smoked salmon were again excellent. Slow cooked chicken was carefully cooked, but despite some use of herbs it needed something more to really lift the dish. However "Cornish pasty", actually using a corn filling, was a clever touch, and nicely made. Cheesecake was pleasant though a "Battenburg" ice cream cake was served too cold. Service was friendly, though I wish they would either increase the lighting levels in the evening or use a bigger font on the menu and wine list, or provide a torch. I guess I am not the typical target demographic, but quite apart from the practicalities I would like to actually see the food.
Further reviews: 01st Jan 2013