At one time the best restaurant in San Francisco, Masa’s has suffered from its chef Julian Serrano moving on to, of all places, Las Vegas, which has become a popular place for celebrity chefs. Now the cooking is still good, but hardly worth the USD 150 a head price tag. The dining room is formal, in a somewhat unlikely basement of the charming but mid-range Vintage Court hotel. The wine list was good, including Chateau d’Yquem dessert wine by the (half) glass. Food is traditional French.