The Maze Grill shares an entrance with Maze, its older sister. The grill iaims firmly into more meaty territory, although the menu has a decent selection of fish and seafood dishes for the non-carnivores. There was a selection of salads e.g. Beef tomato and onion salad with Stilton and roasted onion vinaigrette (£11.50) which was disappointing, the tomato having very limited taste, though the onion vinaigrette was pleasant (12/20). Much better was grilled quail with soya, raspberry, walnuts and coriander leaves as garnish (£12.50), the quail carefully cooked and having good flavour, though I am not sure of the wisdom of the accompaniments (15/20). Pigs on toast (chopped up boned trotters, seasoned with Parmesan on croutons) with Parmesan and rocket (£6) was tasty (14/20). Salt and pepper squid with green chilli (£6) was nicely seasoned but the squid was edging on chewy (13/20) and slow cooked skate with pickled cucumber and lime potatoes was uninspired (12/20).
Fortunately things moved up a gear when it came to the meat. Five beef cuts were on offer, proudly displayed on a board. Casterbridge grain fed beef was aged for 21 days and available in five cuts e.g. rib eye at £21 for a 10 oz steak. Hereford grass fed was aged 25 days and was available in three cuts e.g. sirloin at £21 or fillet at £27.50. Aberdeen Angus grass fed aged 28 days was available in three cuts e.g. fillet at £28. The more interesting was Creekstone USDA corn fed beef from Kansas, aged 35 days. This is the same steak as is served at Peter Luger in New York. This was priced at £40 for a New York strip steak. Finally Australian wagyu 9th grade gold style was a little matter of £110 for either a 10oz sirloin or an 8oz rib eye. I enjoyed the Creekstone strip steak very much; it had good marbling and a stronger flavour than the British steaks we tried. The steaks were nicely presented on wooden boards, and cooked properly to order (17/20 for the meat). Pots of side sauces such as peppercorn and horseradish ((£2) included a good boiled egg bearnaise.
Seared yellowtail tuna was excellent, served with piperade and rocket, and avoiding any hint of overcooking, leaving the tuna flavour to speak for itself (15/20). Side dishes (£3.50) varied, with excellent thin French fries and garlic fries (15/20) but rather hard potato gratin (11/20) and downright overcooked braised carrots (10/20). For dessert, cider apple trifle with financiers and cider granite (£7) was very good, the financiers not quite as moist as an ideal one should be, but very pleasant (14/20). Red fruit Eton mess with marscapone ice cream was served in an unmessy manner and was pronounced delicious. The wine list is manageable in size and has a good selection of New World choices. Mark-ups are what you might expect in Mayfair. There was a set three course lunch for £18. Service was superb throughout. Our waiter was friendly and knew his menu and produce, and the staff seemed to really care about our experience. Overall this was a thoroughly enjoyable meal, and for meat lovers this would be as good a place to be as anywhere in London.