Nanyang Blossom

Nanyang (literally “southern ocean”) refers to the distinctive Chinese/Malay cultural heritage that evolved in Malaysia and Singapore. It is also known as Nyonya. The Nanyang Blossom restaurant with chef Daren Liew (who formerly worked at Hakkasan and Duddel’s) opened in the summer of 2024. The dining room was smartly decorated, seat8ng 56 in total, with a private dining room downstairs. The venue if in a little alley off Knightsbridge Green, near the ever busy Zuma and a few doors up from Signor Sassi.

The wine list had 50 labels and ranged in price from £38 to £3,800, with a median price of £143 and an average markup to retail price of 3.7 times, which is very high even by the demanding standards of Knightsbridge. Sample references were Côtes-du-Rhône Samorëns blanc Ferraton of mysterious vintage at £45 for a bottle that you can find in the high street for £11, Chianti Classico from Antinori, again of unknown vintage, at £72 compared to its retail price of £28, and Quails’ Gate Dry Riesling of unknown age £85 for a wine that will set you back £25 in the high street. For those with the means there was Château Batailley 2017 at £220 compared to its retail price of £74, and Château Rauzan-Ségla 2014 at £380 for a wine whose current market value is £94. It was a rather odd list. Most vintages were omitted entirely, and the wine choices jumps sharply in price once it gets above £100. Of the red wines, there were just five wines under £100 but four over £550.

Soft shell crab with wasabi was pleasant, the soft shell crab avoiding greasiness. The “wasabi” was from a tube rather than being freshly grated wasabi root, and was oddly subdued, so the dish was hardly spicy at all (13/20). I liked a scallop with turmeric and chilli. The scallop was cut into pieces, and these were slathered in a spicy sauce, with a few diced vegetables. The scallop was carefully cooked and the level of spicing was good (14/20).

Chilli prawns were nicely cooked, the sauce having a pleasant level of kick from the chilli (13/20). Beef rendang had generous hunks of beef, which fell part easily when cut. The meat was tender and the dish was enjoyable, though I have certainly had better rendang in Malaysia, but also in London at Normah’s Café, where my entire meal was much cheaper than this single dish (13/20). A side dish of gai lan with garlic was very good, the Chinese asparagus stems tender, lifted nicely by the flavour of the garlic (14/20).

Service was excellent. There were plenty of attentive waitresses, and no difficulty getting drinks topped up. The bill came to £108 per person with beer to drink. Plus a cocktail. This is not cheap for two courses, though the overall package of ambience, food and service was quite appealing. Even on a dank Tuesday in mid-January, the restaurant was quite busy, so it seems to have found its niche.