I was pleased to return to Noize after an excellent meal here soon after it opened. You can read my previous review for detail on the excellent wine list and the background of the restaurant and chef. At this second meal at Noize the meal began with Cheddar gougeres. The choux pastry was good and the filling had plenty of cheese flavour, something that rather oddly eludes some gougeres, when surely this is the main point of the dish (15/20).
A special of the day had tortellino of suckling pig and Scottish langoustines resting in a langoustine bisque, along with a garnish of fresh morels and fennel salad. The combination of pork and shellfish worked well, the pasta has pleasant texture and the sauce was light and nicely balanced the richness of the pasta (14/20) A cauliflower salad was impressive; I always like it when a chef manages to do something special with a humble ingredient. Here cauliflower appeared in several textures: raw, deep-fried, pickled and as a puree, along with a gentle curry flavour, the combination of textures working harmoniously together. This was classy cooking (15/20).
For the main course I had caramelised veal sweetbread with sautéed morels in a rich Madeira sauce, along with pomme puree. The sweetbread was classy, carefully cooked and with delicate texture. The mushrooms with it were very good but above all the sauce was glorious: rich and deeply flavoured, the product of considerable work in the kitchen (16/20). My wife ate the pasta dish that I wrote about in my previous review.
For dessert, rum baba was an excellent rendition of the classic dish, the bread base suffused with rum and filled with crème Chantilly (15/20). Rhubarb millefeuille was classy, the pastry high quality and the rhubarb not too tart (15/20). Service was excellent. The bill came to £116 a head including some fairly serious wine. This was another lovely meal at a restaurant that delivers the whole package: an appealing menu, thoughtful and fairly priced wine list, nice atmosphere and high quality cooking. In a city full of over-hyped and disappointing restaurants Noize stands out as one of the every best openings of the last year.
Further reviews: 14th Oct 2017