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Noize

39 Whitfield Street, London, W1T 2SF, United Kingdom

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For general background on Noize and a discussion of its wine list please see my prior reviews. My latest meal began with warm gougeres made with Cheddar. The choux pastry was delicate and there was plenty of cheese flavour coming through (16/20). The cauliflower starter here seemed even better than last time, the combination of textures lovely, the curry flavour lifting the cauliflower but not being too strong, the green grape providing freshness (16/20). I had very good beef tartare with smoked eel and horseradish, the seasoning spot on, the beef not chopped too fine and the eel being a good foil for the meat (15/20).

For the main course, monkfish came with peas, Jersey Royal potatoes, wild mushrooms and a sauce of sherry vinegar and walnut. The monkfish was nicely cooked and the Jersey Royals, just coming into season now, had very good flavour (15/20). For dessert, apple tart fine came with vanilla ice cream, a classic combination. The pastry was suitable delicate, the slight sharpness of the apples working well with the hint of vanilla (15/20).

Service was charming. A nice touch was that we were celebrating the birthday of a friend. The staff noticed us exchanging gifts, and later the birthday boy’s dessert turned up with a little candle on it. I really appreciate little understated touches like this. The bill came to £106 a head.  Overall this was another excellent meal at Noize, confirming it as one of London’s very best 2017 restaurant openings. 

Further reviews: 22nd Mar 2018 | 14th Oct 2017

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@gastromondiale @vedatmilor I had a bottle of that in Santorini recently - terrific.