At this particular meal we had the “chef’s table” experience, which involves a surprise menu served at a secluded table next to the kitchen. Chicken nuggets were an interesting take on the fast food version, these carefully fried and precisely seasoned (14/20). Hummus was served with rosemary pita bread (13/20). A series of Scandinavian nibbles were served on a wooden board: home smoked salmon with fish skin crisp, mackerel pate, chicken liver parfait (14/20).
Salad of beets and goat cheese with alfalfa sprouts was as precisely judged as before (15/20). Boiled egg with purple potato salad was very enjoyable, again carefully seasoned. This was followed by a fried egg salad and egg yolk served in a soup with a breadstick with caviar (14/20). Sea bass with scallop was carefully cooked, but I particularly liked a parsnip puree that was very accurately seasoned so avoided too much sweetness (15/20). Duck was cooked pink and was very good (14/20).
In a nod to Alinea in Chicago, a sheet was rolled out on the table and the chef then “painted” the dessert on the sheet: there were numerous components, with chocolate sauce, yoghurt, Battenburg cake, assorted ice creams, macarons, a seemingly endless sequence of elements. Diners are asked to don earphones while all this is taking place, and listen to Noel Coward while the dessert is assembled – all good fun (14/20). The bill for all this was £54 including coffee and water, a bargain for some genuinely inventive cooking.