This mini-chain (there are four in London, such as at Beauchamp Place and the Fulham Road, plus a few abroad) aims at producing high grade Thai cooking in fairly smart surroundings. The Greek Street branch was completely packed tonight (including the overflow room downstairs). Prawn crackers arrive while you look at the menu, and these actually taste of prawns. A starter of green mango salad with crispy Thai soft shell crab (£8.95) featured excellent crab, the batter avoiding the greasiness that often afflicts this dish in lesser restaurants. The salad was served in a little dish on the side, and did not compromise the chilli bite, which worked really well with the mango (14/20). Thai fish and prawn cakes (£7.25) were also good, served with a tasty cucumber salsa (13/20).
For main course a sea bass filled was char-grilled with herb curry and served in a banana leaf. I’m not sure what the latter really added since it was not used to steam the fish, but the sea bass was cooked well, and the herb curry sauce did not overwhelm the bass (13/20). Rock lobster tail was sautéed in a basil green curry sauce (£19.95); the shellfish was cooked lightly enough to avoid chewiness, and the green curry’s spices were held back enough so as not to dominate the dish (13/20). Pad Thai noodles (£9.95) featured carefully cooked, large prawns as well as noodles with good texture (13/20). Service was efficient, and indeed the meal whizzed by at quite a rate. Prices are hardly bargain basement, but portions are generous and this is the heart of Soho. It is not as good food as at the very best places in Bangkok, but it is hard to think of a better Thai restaurant in London.
Further reviews: 01st Jan 2006