Pré Catelan has a lovely setting in the woody Bois de Boulougne on the west side of Paris. Chef Frederich Anton used to cook at the peerless Robuchon, and so certainly should have the pedigree to produce fine food. Sadly, this promising setting did not deliver.
Bread is made on the premises, and is a pleasant choice of cereal or brown rolls (17/20). An amuse-bouche of a mousse of peas with a garlic foam clearly had chicken fond to try and boost the taste of the dish, but ended up merely unclear in its flavours (16/20). A ravioli of langoustines had good quality langoustines but pasta that was slightly hard, served with a bouillon of olive oil perfumed with pepper that had no depth of flavour (16/20). Sea bass was seriously overcooked, coated with rather low quality Caviar d'Aquitaine on one piece and sesame seeds on the other. The toppings overwhelmed the taste of the bass which was itself very ordinary. The waiter at least saw I was not enjoying it and offered an alternative. I chose sole, which was cooked correctly, but served with a really disappointing sludgy sauce of soya jus and spices mixed in with fresh mango and butter (14/20).
Cheese was fine, but I was still recovering from the shock of the fish (18/20 for the cheese). It is from Alleosse, a very good supplier. Dessert rescued the meal to some extent. A pretty presentation of apple puree encased in a sphere of glucose (made a little like glass-blowers blow a bowl) suffered from a casing that was too thick to really be enjoyable though a pleasant apple mousse (17/20). Best was a coffee dessert of sabayon, ganache, brulee and creme glacee, very well executed and with good coffee flavour (19/20).
Overall, though this was a grave disappointment, especially at the price.