Roka

Roka opened here in 2004, set up by Rainer Becker and Arjun Waney. The cuisine is Japanese, focusing on the robata grill but with a wide selection of sushi dishes and other Japanese offerings. There are further Roka restaurants in Mayfair, Canary Wharf and Aldwych, but also in Dubai, Greece, Turkey, Spain and Bahrain, amongst others. There is a central open kitchen with counter tables all around, as well as regular tables and some outside seating too. It is a large, bustling space.

There was a set menu at £88 and a premium tasting menu at £108 in addition to an extensive a la carte menu. The wine list was not available on-line but some examples were Langenlois Gruner Weltliner 2022 at £52 for a wine that you can find in the high street for £21, Domaine Serge Laloue Sancerre 2022 at £72 for a wine that retails at £24, and Shaw and Smith Shiraz 2020 at £96 for a bottle whose current market value is £32. Posher offerings included Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape 2001 at £260 for a wine that will set you back £75 in a shop, and Domaine Dauvissat-Camus La Forest Chablis 2015 at £396 compered to its current retail price of £176. There was a selection of sakes, and Kirin beer as an alternative to wine or sake.

Tuna tataki (£17) with apple mustard dressing was prettily presented with a central salad, the tuna very lightly seared and the acidity of the apple dressing balancing the natural richness of the tuna (14/20). Prawn tempura (£17.80) came with a spicy yuzu sauce. The tempura batter was thicker than you would get in Japan but it was quite crisp and entirely avoided greasiness, which is the downfall of a lot of tempura in the UK. The prawns themselves had good natural sweetness and were carefully cooked (14/20).

Beef and ginger gyoza dumplings (£15.60) were pleasant, with the ginger flavour coming through quite well. The texture of the dumplings could have been improved compared to the ideal version, these being just a touch softer than they might have been (13/20). Eel sushi (£12) was brushed with teriyaki sauce. This was reasonable but the unagi (river eel, as distinct from the classier anago or sea eel) was rather mushier in texture than ideal, though the taste was fine and the teriyaki sauce went well. The rice base (shari) was reasonable, with just a touch of vinegar (13/20). Chicken skewers (£9.50) were actually very tasty, laced with spring onion and brushed with a barbecue sauce. The texture of the chicken was good and the sauce did a good job of enhancing the flavour of the chicken  (14/20).

Service was classy on this absolutely packed service, with the waiters attentive and capable. My bill for one came to £96 with a beer to drink. This was an enjoyable experience in a very lively setting. It is remarkable how well Roka has kept its appeal all these years later; it was still buzzing on a Monday night.

Further reviews: 16th Aug 2012