Editor's note: this restaurant closed in October 2016, when the chef retired.
This is in the basement floor of an unassuming office block. It is a tiny place with just ten bar stools around a wooden counter. No photos I am afraid, as for reasons that elude me they don't allow them. Brown sole was not particularly to my taste, as it had a distinct chewiness to it. Far better was dotted gizzard shard, which resembled a tiny mackerel; this had a lovely, distinct taste (18/20).
Cuttlefish was very impressive, far better than the one at Koju the previous night, without a hint of chewiness in texture (18/20). Maguro tuna was simply perfect, the best I have encountered (20/20). Toro in medium and fatty forms was similarly sublime (19/20). This was tuna heaven.
"Ark shell" clam or "bloody clam" was a little chewy, but had good taste (17/20). Hen clam and gaper clam were a little less to my taste, but clam is not my favourite thing. Japanese halfbeak was very good (17/20). Horse mackerel was fantastic, with great flavour, and far better than the Sukyibashi Jiro version (19/20). Abalone was non-chewy, a miracle in itself (18/20). Common Japanese conger eel was superb, with great depth of flavour (19/20).
The bill was JPY 36,000 for two, with lots of beer included. The service was charming. No-one really spoke any English, but a waiter helpfully brought out a fish textbook and pointed to any fish that I didn't recognise, which I thought was really nice. I am not sure whether a place serving raw ingredients can ever, in my mind, truly be three Michelin star. Of course there is the skill of sourcing the produce, cooking the rice, and slicing the fish optimally. However if any sushi place should have three stars, then this definitely deserves it. It was emphatically better than Sukyibashi Jiro in every way, and the fish quality was just about perfect. A delightful experience.