It is now eighteen months since I first wrote about Sushi Tetsu, shortly after it opened. With its seven seats and wooden counter the feel is exactly that of a sushi restaurant in Tokyo. The chef goes to considerable lengths to source his fish, shunning the usual London suppliers to Japanese restaurants. This effort pays off in the very high standard of seafood, beautifully cut. The only real difference between then and now is that a reservation has become almost impossible, with the phone ringing off the hook on the first and third Mondays of each month at 11:00. The chef pays a lot of attention to the rice, using slightly different varieties in different seasons. The rice is served, as it should be, slightly warm, between room and body temperature.
The meal today began with turbot and sea bass sashimi, both carefully cut and having excellent flavour. Marinated, seared mackerel was excellent, the fish having lovely flavour. A plate of mixed sashimi appeared next: yellowtail, salmon, sweet baby shrimp, snow crab, tuna and seared ribbon fish.
Sea bream sushi has not a hint of the chewiness that often is a feature of this fish. This was followed by salmon roe roll. Scallop sushi was also good, to be followed by several tuna sushi variants: marinated tuna, then regular maguro tuna, then seared chu-toro tuna. Light tomago cake finished the meal, as is traditional, this one a little less sweet than some in Japan.
The bill was £97 a head for the full omakase experience (£80 for the food) with water and tea to drink. As ever, the chef and his wife were charming hosts. This remains a notch above all other sushi restaurants in London at present.