La Trompette

5 Devonshire Road, Chiswick, London, England, W4 2EU, United Kingdom

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La Trompette has been the culinary lynchpin of Chiswick ever since it opened on the former site of La Dordogne, way back in 2001. It has held a Michelin star since 2008, with Rob Weston, formerly head chef of The Square, in charge of the kitchen. Three courses were priced at £52.50 at this Friday lunch. The wine list here is well put together and fairly priced (see my previous review for details), or there is corkage at £40 a bottle. 

As a couple of canapes, eel and oyster cream tartlet had delicate pastry and plenty of flavour from the eel. Cured black bream was paired with pickled cucumber and a little wasabi, a nice combination with the vinegar from the pickling and the gentle spice of the wasabi cutting through the richness of the fish (easily 15/20).

Smoked suckling pig tortelloni had good pasta and plenty of pork flavour, enhanced by garden pickles. This was enlivened by a spicy bois boudrin sauce (made with shallots, tomatoes, white wine vinegar, soy, mustard, Worcestershire sauce and a little chili) and the dish was finished with aged pecorino (15/20).

Crab linguini featured hand-rolled linguini that was cooked just a fraction too long to my taste, but the crab tasted fresh and its natural sweetens was balanced by preserved lemon and a dusting of bottarga (14/20). Red mullet was scorched and served with salt and pepper squid along with a tomato and seaweed dressing. The fish was lovely and the squid worked very well with it (16/20). 

Somerset Saxon chicken was served with spaetzle, hen of the wood mushrooms, and a basil pesto. The chicken had reasonable flavour and the pesto lifted the dish well, with the spaetzle (egg noodle dumplings) being well-made and bringing an extra texture (15/20). Fallow deer was roasted and served with smoked potatoes, kohlrabi, garden beets and damson. The venison was lightly cooked and the acidity of the damson cut nicely through the richness of the meat (15/20).

Damson crumble souffle was light and airy, the with the sharp damsons a good foil for the eggs in the souffle mix (15/20). Bitter chocolate delice had silky texture and came with hazelnut ice cream, an appealing combination (15/20). Coffee was from Union Coffee. Service was excellent, and the bill came to £80 a head including corkage. This was a lovely meal, with a very appealing menu and capable cooking. This combination of factors is what gives La Trompette its enduring charm. It is one of the most reliable London restaurants.


Further reviews: 25th Feb 2023 | 03rd Jul 2021 | 24th Nov 2019 | 15th Oct 2018 | 08th Sep 2017 | 05th Jan 2017 | 11th Jul 2013 | 13th Dec 2012

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