My first visit to l’Amorosa was so early that they still had the old Lola and Simon sign above the door. The restaurant has now officially been open since the autumn of 2014 and is gradually adopting its new identity. Ex Zafferano head chef Andy Needham works with just one kitchen assistant, cooking a slightly simpler version of the Italian dishes that he prepared for so many years in Belgravia. I have eaten many meals here now and it has become a regular haunt. The pasta dishes are reliably excellent and the risotto is top class.
The room is on two levels, seating up to 40 people in all, with a further eight outside in good weather. The décor is simple but tasteful with wood flooring and white walls, the lighting in the evening very low indeed. As a nice touch, there is free WiFi with a respectable 10 MBps download speed.
The new wine list had just over two dozen labels, ranging in price from £13.50 to £88, with a median price of £34 and an average mark-up level of just 2.4 times the retail price, a bargain by London standards. Example wines were Orvieto Classico Tomaiolo Castellani 2013 at £19 for a wine that you can find in the high street for £7, Castellare di Castelina Chianti Classico 2012 at £40.50 compared to a shop price of £16, and Alois Lageder Pinot Noir 2009 at £60 for a bottle that will set you back £28 at retail price. The meal below is one of several that I have eaten here - the cooking is very consistent.
Papardelle with salt marsh lamb ragu featured very good pasta, cooked precisely, the dish accurately seasoned. The ragu could for me have been even deeper in flavor, but this was a very nice dish (14/20). Roasted corn-fed chicken came on the bone, served with crisp sage and served on a bed of puy lentils. This was a comforting dish, the seasoning again precise, the sage a useful addition (14/20). A mixed leaf salad on the side had a well-balanced dressing, fresh leaves and good quality cherry tomatoes.
The dessert of orange cake was served warm and was nicely moist, topped with orange segments and zest, served with excellent vanilla ice cream. Coffee was a brand called Climpson Estate and was excellent, rich and avoiding bitterness. The bill at lunch for one person, with just water to drink came to a mere £22. In the evening, with a bottle of wine to share, a more realistic bill would be perhaps £55 a head, still very good value for cooking at this level.