As noted in my other reviews, under Heros de Agostinis the standard of cooking at Apsleys, already high, has moved up a notch. For me, this is in clear two star Michelin territory. See my other reviews for more detailed tasting notes, but the standard was confirmed tonight with a tasting menu.
Foie gras, quail and raspberry was an elegant little dish, the raspberry coulis providing some acidic balance to the silky richness of the foie gras (18/20). Tuna tartare came with tomato mousse and taggiasche olives, a little theatre provided by some dry ice which had a hint of mint (17/20).
Lobster salad came with nectarine, green celery and excellent “San Daniele” ham, the lobster tender, the combination of flavours working well together (17/20). Sicilian prawns were served with maccheroncini, baby broccoli and saffron, the pasta carefully cooked, the prawns having excellent flavour (17/20).
Marinated black cod with baby Swiss Chard and anchovy sauce was my least favourite dish, but this is more a matter of personal taste than anything technical; I am just not a great lover of cod. Venison cooked in yoghurt with crispy purple potatoes and salsify was lovely, the meat having superb flavour (18/20). Chocolate and passion fruit is a great combination, and so it proved here, as was a plum tartelette and Armagnac ice cream (18/20).
Service was excellent, as it always seems to be here. The sommelier is very knowledgeable and can guide you to areas of the wine list that represent relative value, though this list is heavily marked up, so I do not recommend splashing out here.