Black Salt

There is a new head chef at Black Salt. Chinta Mamgain was formerly at Copper Chimney and before that at Zaika. Otherwise the staff (other than the manager) are the same as previously and the menu is unchanged. Most importantly, the standard is as high as ever. It is interesting that even the popadoms here are a class above what you might expect. They are fried and very crisp, served with a trio of home-made chutneys rather than the contents of a jar, which so many restaurants serve. You might think that popadoms would be good everywhere but they vary a lot. Some are grilled rather than fried, which I don’t think works as well, and some versions can be downright had, including a couple I can recall that were so limp that they could actually be folded, as if they were part of an origami lesson. 

Tonight, we had kale bhajias to start. This is a terrific dish, the outside crisp and the spices vibrant. This is so different from the onion bhajias of the basic high street tandoori that we are all used to (16/20). Chicken malai tikka had three generous pieces of chicken with the usual avocado chutney. The meat was very tender, having absorbed the gentle spices of the marinade (15/20).

Chicken biryani had fragrant rice and chicken that was tender and in no way dried out, which is the fate of all too many versions of this dish in less skilled hands (15/20). Tandoori pepper prawns were mostly good though one of the prawns had a mushier texture than the others, which was a shame. Apparently, there was a change of supplier recently but from next week they are reverting to the original one, so hopefully this was just a blip, so I will not score this element. To be fair, the other prawns that we tasted were lovely.

Aloo gobi was particularly good tonight, the vegetables firm and having just taken on the flavour of the spices that they were cooked with (15/20). This dish was actually better than the last version that I ate here. Black dhal was also excellent, a dark and rich concoction cooked overnight with a hint of smokiness (16/20). Naans, both plain and garlic versions, were hot and fresh and soft and supple (15/20). I also tasted a tandoori lamb chop, cooked pink and with tender meat that was gently spiced (easily 15/20).

I was being taken here tonight but the bill for two would normally be around £55 per person. The staff were friendly and the dishes arrived at a steady pace. Black Salt continues to deliver some of the best Indian food that you will find in and around London.

Further reviews: 03rd Apr 2024 | 10th Aug 2023 | 09th Sep 2022 | 29th Jun 2022 | 23rd Apr 2022 | 26th Jan 2022 | 27th Nov 2021