Ritz

I have written previously about the history of the Ritz, its executive chef John Williams and its head chef Deepak Mallya, as well as about its wine list. There are many menu options here, ranging from three courses at £98 through to a la carte and tasting menus. We opted for the full seven course tasting menu at £235.  

The meal today began with a series of canapes. To begin with were a tried and tested trio that I have described before. Ragstone cheese mousse with wood-roasted pepper and basil was roasted on a sable base, the mousse smooth in texture and the base of the canapé being very delicate. Coronation chicken is wrapped in a sugar tuile cylinder. Chicken is mixed with curry powder and salt, steamed and then chilled. This is then mixed with spices, coconut cream, mayonnaise, coriander, raisins and mango chutney. The mix is wrapped in a sugar tuile seasoned with coconut, curry and espelette pepper, the ends being dipped in toasted breadcrumbs. The result is a lovely blend of flavours, with the delicate tuile melting on the tongue. The final regular canape was duck liver parfait with sour cherry and gingerbread, the richness of the liver nicely balanced by the sharpness of the sour cherry. Following these were two further canapes. The first was a luxurious take on steak tartare. Beef fillet was diced very fine, mixed with shallots, egg yolk, Worcestershire sauce, mustard and seasoned with salt and pepper. The destination for this is a crisp pate de brick tart case. Whipped and seasoned creme fraiche is piped into the centre of the pastry case. A small piece of oyster leaf goes into the base which is then topped with the beef tartare and a layer of oscietra caviar. The salinity of the caviar acts as a natural seasoning, while the crisp pastry casing provides a textural contrast to the beef and caviar. The final canape was tartlet of smoked sea trout, cured in a citrus salt and then gently smoked. diced and bound with lemon zest and juice, fresh grated horseradish, fresh dill and a dill pickle gel. This was topped with trout roe and served in a crisp pate de brick cart case. Sea trout has a much better flavour than farmed river trout, and the touch of horseradish lifted the flavour nicely (canapes average 18/20).

The first formal course of the meal was a pretty tomato dish. Datterini tomatoes from Sicily were blanched, peeled, lightly seasoned, and semi-dried to intensify their flavour before being plated with olive oil and Maldon salt. Basil was made into an oil and emulsion, while aged Parmesan was set into smooth, delicate rings. A clear tomato consommé was created through slow infusion and filtration. On the side was a crisp "bread pillow", baked and filled with rich tomato fondue, then finished with basil emulsion. The dish was completed with fresh herbs and seasonal edible flowers for aroma, colour, and balance. This was a pretty and refreshing first course (17/20) 

A very pretty dish of crab and apple followed, the crab sourced from Norfolk. White crab meat was mixed with passed brown crab, and in turn mixed with crème fraiche, lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. A chopped jelly was made from Granny Smith apple juice, fennel juice, grape juice and minus 8 Verjus. The dish was completed with Imperial caviar, and the finishes product was beautiful to look at. On the side, a crab crumpet used traditional dough made using sourdough, salt, sugar, and baking soda. This was cooked gently on a hot planchet and topped with a brown crab butter, crème fraiche, crab meat bound with brown crab and kombu nest. This is an exquisite dish to look at, with the crumpet providing a humble foil for the richness of the crab and caviar, the apple brings just the right level of acidic balance (19/20).

The foie was from the Landes region in the southwest of France. This was de-veined and marinated in salt, pink salt, sugar, pepper, port, sauternes, and Armagnac. The dish is served tableside with a homemade brioche. Spiced port Jelly is made from port, peppercorns, orange, bay leaf and star anise that are reduced, set into a jelly and wrapped around the outside. Finally, damson gel is made from preserved damsons that are cooked gently with port and sugar. These are preserved and served with pistachio yoghurt. This comes with a little heap of salad leaves. On the side is brioche and a pistachio Bakewell tart. This is a deceptively simple dish, with just the three distinct elements (foie, gel, salad) on the dinner plate. However, the balance of the dish is superb, with there being just enough acidity from the damson to cut through the richness of the liver, and the salad leaves also relieve the richness. The texture of the ballotine itself was superb, with beautifully rich flavour (19/20).

Next was John Dory with potato and saffron. Accompanying the fillet of John Dory was a potato and saffron "risotto," where sliced potatoes are gently steamed in saffron-infused butter until tender, then diced and sautéed with shallots and garlic in olive oil. The dish is enriched with a spiced tomato gel. Stuffed mussels add richness, filled with a delicate fish mousseline flavoured with lemon zest, served alongside yellow courgettes. To balance the dish, a lemon gel is served. Baby fennel is gently braised in herb oil and Pernod until tender, then shocked in ice water to preserve its colour and freshness. Finally, a luxurious lobster saffron sauce tied everything together. Lobster shells are sautéed with aromatics, then cooked down with tomato purée, piquillo peppers, fennel and coriander seeds, orange, and saffron before being enriched with chicken and veal stock and fresh herbs I really liked the sauce here, which had a reasonably gentle but distinct touch of spice. The cooking of the fish was fine, though it definitely did not need to be cooked any longer or it would be heading into slightly overcooked territory. The sauce, though, was the star for me (17/20).

The final savoury dish was beef Wellington with Madeira and Périgord truffle. A 14-day aged Angus beef filler is stuffed with duck liver, wrapped in mushroom duxelles and chicken mousse, then encased in crépe and puff pastry and baked medium-rare. It is served with white asparagus and pomme purée. Morel mushrooms are filled with rich veal and chicken farce, poached, and glazed with Madeira. A deep truffle sauce, made from black winter truffles infused with port and Madeira, accompanies the dish. The dish is finished with a rich truffle and lovage emulsion. This was a really superb dish, with every element singing. Although the beef was the star, the morels and the white asparagus were superb, as was the sauce. A few delicate pommes souffle accompanied the beef (19/20).

As pre-dessert, a pretty dish of apple, mint and soured cream appeared. A smooth-set vanilla cream of mascarpone and sour cream was topped with compressed Granny Smith apple infused with apple juice and mint. A crisp mint sugar tuile added texture, finished with a curl of Bramley apple and mint sorbet, and a garnish of Paztizz top cress, adding a delicate anise note. This was a refreshing and attractive pre dessert (17/20). 

The main dessert was an elaborate and elegant looking rhubarb dish with vanilla cream and stem ginger ice cream, involving layered flavours and textures. Ginger ale-poached rhubarb surrounds a smooth vanilla custard, while a rhubarb gin parfait filled with compote adds dept. A crisp almond brandy snap tuille is topped with vanilla custard and a delicate rhubarb lattice. Served alongside, roasted rhubarb compote and stem ginger ice cream provide a warm, spiced finish. The sharpness of the rhubarb was in harmonious balance with the richness of the vanilla cream, while the gentle hint of spice from the stem ginger opened up another layer of flavour. This was a clever, attractive and beautifully balanced dish (strong 18/20). Finally, there were petit fours: a dark chocolate and hazelnut praline, a salted caramel, vanilla macaroon and pate de fruit. I drank a tea infusion from the trolley.

Service was superb throughout the meal. The bill came to £451 per person including plenty of wine. Of course, you could eat for much less than this if you ordered the cheapest menu and selected carefully from the wine list. The Ritz remains at the pinnacle of the London dining scene.

Further reviews: 02nd Mar 2026 | 26th Sep 2025 | 11th Jul 2025 | 26th May 2025 | 04th Mar 2025 | 28th Jan 2025 | 15th Oct 2024 | 28th Mar 2024 | 02nd Feb 2024 | 11th Dec 2023 | 01st Nov 2023 | 24th Sep 2023 | 26th Jun 2023 | 10th May 2023 | 08th Mar 2023 | 09th Dec 2022 | 04th Nov 2022 | 30th Sep 2022 | 20th Jul 2022 | 24th Jun 2022 | 15th Apr 2022 | 08th Feb 2022 | 14th Dec 2021 | 06th Dec 2021 | 22nd Oct 2021 | 14th Oct 2021 | 25th Jun 2021 | 25th May 2021 | 15th Oct 2020 | 28th Aug 2020 | 31st Jul 2020 | 29th Feb 2020 | 19th Nov 2019 | 25th Oct 2019 | 30th Sep 2019 | 30th Aug 2019 | 16th Jul 2019 | 18th Apr 2019 | 12th Mar 2019 | 26th Sep 2018 | 01st Aug 2018 | 04th May 2018 | 20th Apr 2018 | 13th Feb 2018 | 11th Dec 2017 | 02nd Feb 2017 | 15th Jun 2016 | 27th Jan 2016 | 26th Aug 2015 | 28th Feb 2015 | 21st Dec 2013 | 24th Aug 2013 | 30th Apr 2013 | 29th Dec 2011 | 01st Feb 2011 | 01st Dec 2010