Tantris has an expansive and rather peculiar dining room, decorated in the style of a 1970s disco lounge. Orange is a dominant colour. Fortunatelv the food makes up for the surroundings. An amuse bouche of chicken liver was very good (17/20) but my wife´s amuse bouche of a little filo pastry cornet of marinated salmon with a hint of dill was just about perfect, dazzlingly fresh with the acidity of the marinade beautifully balancing the salmon (20/20). I began with scallops with mango and avocado, and this was as light as could be, the scallops seared but retaining their natural sweetness, the mango (from Thailand) of the highest quality, indeed some of the best mango I have ever eaten. The citrus dressing was an excellent foil to the sweetness of the scallops and the richness of the avocado (19/20).
Ravioli of quail egg and peas with morels kept up the standard, the pasta extremely delicate, the baby morels superb, the combination of flavours working well (19/20 easily). Sea bass was served as a generous fillet on a bed of tomato risotto. The risotto itself was excellent, made with a vegetable garlic stock, and the fish was tender though perhaps not quite to the standard of the rest of the meal (18/20). Stuffed tuiles with mango mousse and passion fruit sorbet was a refreshing way to finish, the rolled tuile containing lovely mango mousse, the passion fruit sorbet delicate (19/20). The wine list was extensive and not priced too aggressively. Service was very professional.
What stood out for me were the clean flavours and high grade ingredients. The cooking does not try to pile on too many flavours, and the technique was superb. This had 2 Michelin stars in the 2007 Guide, yet the meal tonight was better than many 3 star places in the world. Its 19/20 rating in the Gault Millau 2006 more accurately reflects the high level of cooking here. The only weakness in the meal was the bread, which was bought in and frankly was just not that good (13/20). It was an odd aberration for a restaurant whose standards are so very high elsewhere.