The Ledbury sails serenely on Saturday, October 06th, 2007
The Ledbury sails serenely on. Indian cuisine meets Austin Powers at Mantra. The Brackenbury continues to set the standard for a top quality neighbourhood restaurant.
The Ledbury sails serenely on Saturday, October 06th, 2007
The Ledbury sails serenely on. Indian cuisine meets Austin Powers at Mantra. The Brackenbury continues to set the standard for a top quality neighbourhood restaurant.
A week in Lisbon Saturday, September 29th, 2007
Lisbon has some great seafood but most places I sampled seemed unable to cook it very well. Tamarind is pleasant but pricey, and Foliage delivers a solid one star meal. Chefs seem to be queueing up to open in London in the autumn.
Normal for Norfolk Saturday, September 22nd, 2007
My foray to Norfolk is a culinary let-down, but a really promising restaurant opens in London at last. Diwana Bhel Poori and Zafferano continue to excel in their very different ways.
The Phoenix Palace rises from the ashes Friday, September 14th, 2007
The Phoenix Palace delivers a capable meal, which is more than can be said for the much-hyped Wahaca. La Trompette and the Brilliant were also on form. I go to a rice tasting, the new Good Food Guide comes out, and I'll be on telly on Monday.
Roussillon revisited Saturday, August 25th, 2007
Roussillon delivers another enjoyable meal, and an excuse to eat the gorgeous chocolate desserts here. Tangawizi continues to set a standard for Indian cooking that few in London can match, and Royal China continues serenely along.
I judge a TV dinner Saturday, August 11th, 2007
Pearl serves up a slightly inconsistent, though mostly good, meal. E&O seems busier than ever, and the cooking seems a little sharper to me than on previous visits. Haandi is as consistently excellent as ever, and I judge a TV dinner.
Petite Maison comes to Mayfair Saturday, August 04th, 2007
Does London need yet another over-expensive yet carefully marketed bistro? Le Gavroche delivers a solid, if imperfect meal, while the Brilliant is a rock of reliability and value in Southall.
Hof van Cleve and Oud Sluis - serious food Saturday, July 28th, 2007
A busy week. Haandi, Zuma and Yauatcha all deliver reliable meals, but the week was really all about comparing Le Manoir au Quat Saisons with Hof van Cleve and Oud Sluis.
Vendome has proper 3 star cooking Saturday, June 30th, 2007
I have a generally good meal at the Cinnamon Club, and I venture off the tube network, though only as far as the Hinds Head in Bray. I have a stunning meal in Vendome in Germany, but also meet Germany's answer to Basil Fawlty.
The finest of Knightsbridge reviewed Saturday, June 02nd, 2007
Meals this week at the Capital, Foliage, Hakkasan, High Road House, Madhu's and Agni. I also find the most expensive beer in London at a restaurant - £9 a bottle anyone?
Some good value Indian meals Saturday, May 26th, 2007
The Brilliant continues to live up to its name, and I manage to break the £10 a head barrier at Diwana Bhel Poori. I also return to Arbutus. On another subject, Marcus Wareing 0, Jill Dupleix 1.
Starry dining - The Fat Duck, Pied a Terre, Le Gavroche and Locanda Locatelli. Saturday, May 19th, 2007
Another busy week, with meals at the Fat Duck, Pied a Terre, Gavroche and Locanda Locatelli. After all that French and Italian food I needed a curry at Haandi.
A trio of Paris 3 stars Saturday, May 12th, 2007
Meals at The Square, Zafferano and Haandi all delivered, but then it was time to up a gear. Off to Paris and dazzling meals at Meurice, Ledoyen and Astrance, although Pre Catalan was hugely disappointing. London has nothing to fear on ethnic foods though, based on my poor Japanese and Vietnamese meals in Paris.
Manoir au Quat Saison revisited Saturday, May 05th, 2007
Manoir aux Quat' Saison produces a superb meal, and Tom Aikens also delivers a high quality experience. I venture into the world of fusion cuisine at Providores, and have an erratic meal at Michael Moore.
The weirdness that is Suka Saturday, April 28th, 2007
A busy week, with an erratic and costly meal at Suka, an excellent dinner at Roussillon and another at the Ledbury. I even ventured out of London to the Vineyard, and found time for a deeply mediocre curry in Hammersmith. At which place was I sat next to a movie star?
Chez Bruce purrs along Saturday, April 21st, 2007
Chez Bruce purrs along. Smiths of Smithfield wisely sticks to serving top class meat without too many distractions. Sadly chef Mark Jankels is no longer at the stoves of the Notting Hill Brasserie, and it shows. The Waterside Inn shows a few imperfections, though both the view and the bill are spectacular.
Tantris is tantalising Saturday, April 07th, 2007
A superb meal at Tantris in Munich, though a poor one at Acetaia. Back in London, Boxwood Cafe is disappointing and a chain burger beats its signature dish. I have an "Invasion of the Bodysnatchers" moment in Chiswick.
Munching in Munchen Saturday, March 31st, 2007
Munching in Munchen. A superb meal at Konigshof in Munich. By contrast Aubergine in London disappoints but the Brilliant in Southall is as reliable as ever.
The recently refurbished Gordon Ramsay revisited Saturday, March 10th, 2007
The recently refurbished Gordon Ramsay purrs along. A room with a view is the Petersham Hotel dining room. The new chef at Caprice hasn't changed the formula. I had an excellent tasting menu at Foliage and a cynically poor one at l'Escargot.
Scotts opens Saturday, February 17th, 2007
A fishy week, with meals at Scotts and the Fish Shop on St John Street. The under-rated Rousillon continued to show high class technique.
Bonds stock is high Saturday, January 20th, 2007
Bonds does a good meal despite a bear market in customers. A new tapas bar in Twickenham works well. Haandi continues to impress.
The ever-improving Notting Hill Brasserie Saturday, December 16th, 2006
A fine meal at the ever-improving Notting Hill Brasserie, and a general whinge about the cost of eating out on Christmas day.
1 Lombard Street shows how not to do front of house Friday, November 17th, 2006
A lengthy meal at 1 Lombard Street interspersed with stroppy service, but reliable fish and chips in St John Street. Fine curries at Rasa Samudra and the Brilliant.
Good south Indian cooking comes to Hammersmith Saturday, November 11th, 2006
Tasty South Indian cooking at Oottupura, reliable Chinese food at Royal China and ups and downs (but mostly downs) in Chiswick at Vacherin and new opening Carvosso's.
Sabras in Willesden is terrific Saturday, October 21st, 2006
Read about my visit to Ledbury. My review on Sabras in Willesden and also some important information about the Good Food Guide forcing councils to publish hygiene inspections of restaurants.
Roussillon revisited Saturday, October 07th, 2006
The 2007 Good Food Guide hits the bookshelves. Roussillon delivers an excellent meal. Chiswick gets a new gastropub, and a decent one it is.
Atelier Robuchon hits London. Saturday, September 30th, 2006
Atelier Robuchon hits London. It is good food, but the price is high. Mehek betrays no reason whatever for its recent award at the British Curry Awards.
Three London starred restaurants Saturday, September 16th, 2006
Pied a Terre produces a very fine meal. Yauatcha and Zafferano also show why they have Michelin stars.
The Square revisited Monday, August 28th, 2006
The Square purrs along, though it lacks real excitement. Jeevan in Wembley is not worth the trip.
Pied a Terre reopens Sunday, August 06th, 2006
Pied a Terre shines after its reopening. Zuma shows why it is so popular, and Patara is the best Thai restaurant in London. High Road House opens in Chsiwcik, and the luvvies love it.
Noisette does its best in an awkward site Saturday, July 29th, 2006
Noisette is pleasant but expensive, and Bjorn van der Horst shows the dining room his extensive English vocabulary. Galvins Bistro is fine, but I cannot really see what the fuss is about. Excellent Indian cooking at Rasa Maricham and the Brilliant in Southall, and the usual at Zafferano.
Notting Hill Brasserie reviewed Saturday, July 22nd, 2006
Mark Jankels is a fine chef, and the Notting Hill Brasserie an excellent spot. Bellamys in Mayfair was rather dull, but I have enjoyable meals at Trompette, Rasa Maricham and the Thai Bistro. Le Talbooth in Essex is a tragi-comic meal: beautiful setting, shame about the truly awful food.
Galvin at Windows reviewed Sunday, July 09th, 2006
Galvin at Windows is solid, but not cheap, while its wine list has some larcenous mark-ups. Trompette in Chiswick is consistent as usual, while Yauatcha has superb dim sum.
I visit Arbutus Sunday, June 25th, 2006
Arbutus seems perfectly pleasant to me, but I am surprised at the acclaim it is getting. Rasa Maricham serves up some tasty Keralan food, while Carluccio in W4 is downright poor.
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