Dining in Harlow Saturday, January 12th, 2008
I try Tom Ilic and Yumi, return to the Fish Shop on St John Street and the Brilliant, and try eating in Harlow
Dining in Harlow Saturday, January 12th, 2008
I try Tom Ilic and Yumi, return to the Fish Shop on St John Street and the Brilliant, and try eating in Harlow
Simple British cooking is alive and well and living in Hereford Road Saturday, January 05th, 2008
Simple British cooking is alive and well and living in Hereford Road. I return to The Devonshire and Royal China, and venture to darkest Pinner in the search for Indian food.
I try the new Landau at the Langham hotel Saturday, December 29th, 2007
I try the new Landau at the Langham hotel, and return to Kastoori in search of top vegetarian Indian food now that Sabras has closed.
My 2007 culinary highs and lows Saturday, December 22nd, 2007
I revisit Hawksmoor, and return to old favourites Zafferano and Haandi. Also, my 2007 culinary highs and lows.
I go to the "other" restaurant at the Dorchester Saturday, December 15th, 2007
I go to the "other" restaurant at the Dorchester and enjoy it more than Ducasse. Tangawizi continues to impress but not even the Brilliant can rescue a turkey curry. Various Michelin guides come out.
Alan Yau turning Japanese Saturday, December 08th, 2007
I venture to Alan Yau’s new venture, Sake No Hana, and mix with the celebs. I return to Madhus in Southall, and to Tarantella in Chiswick.
Rowley Leigh’s new Cafe Anglais Saturday, November 24th, 2007
This week I try Rowley Leigh’s new Cafe Anglais, revisit Odettes, find a pizzeria with a difference in Giusto, and savour a remarkable special at the Brilliant. The Michelin 2008 Spain guide comes out with little change, but by contrast the new Michelin Tokyo Guide lands with a thump.
Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester on its opening night Saturday, November 17th, 2007
I try Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester on its opening night. I find Semplice to be an impressive Italian restaurant, and have very enjoyable meals at Yauatcha and Haandi. Michelin Germany 2008 comes out, and arrives with a bang.
Diwali in Southall is princely Saturday, November 10th, 2007
I spend Diwali in Southall and meet Prince Charles. Cambio de Tercio seems transformed, and Pizzeria Rustica is all too rustic, at least in its staff hygiene training.
Hibiscus comes to London Saturday, November 03rd, 2007
This week I sample the newly opened Hibiscus, and revisit Gilgamesh, La Trompette, La Trenta, High Road Brasserie and the Brackenbury.
I venture to the wilds of Hoxton to try Bacchus Saturday, October 27th, 2007
I venture to the wilds of Hoxton to try Bacchus. Gordon Ramsay arrives in Chiswick in the form of a pleasant gastropub, while Gary Rhodes Brasserie disappoints. The Fish shop on St John Street and Rasa Samudra deliver as usual, but I encounter some dismal service at Bar Shu.
Vacherin revamped Saturday, October 20th, 2007
This week a revamp works wonders for Le Vacherin, I have another excellent curry at Haandi and try two Italians: my old favourite Zafferano and new kid on the block La Trenta.
Sichuan food near Boston Saturday, October 13th, 2007
In Boston, I enjoy the vibrant spicing of a real Sichuan restaurant, but am uninspired by two of the highest rated restaurants there. Back in London, Zaika shows how to make proper biriani.
The Ledbury sails serenely on Saturday, October 06th, 2007
The Ledbury sails serenely on. Indian cuisine meets Austin Powers at Mantra. The Brackenbury continues to set the standard for a top quality neighbourhood restaurant.
A week in Lisbon Saturday, September 29th, 2007
Lisbon has some great seafood but most places I sampled seemed unable to cook it very well. Tamarind is pleasant but pricey, and Foliage delivers a solid one star meal. Chefs seem to be queueing up to open in London in the autumn.
Normal for Norfolk Saturday, September 22nd, 2007
My foray to Norfolk is a culinary let-down, but a really promising restaurant opens in London at last. Diwana Bhel Poori and Zafferano continue to excel in their very different ways.
The Phoenix Palace rises from the ashes Friday, September 14th, 2007
The Phoenix Palace delivers a capable meal, which is more than can be said for the much-hyped Wahaca. La Trompette and the Brilliant were also on form. I go to a rice tasting, the new Good Food Guide comes out, and I'll be on telly on Monday.
Tasty Thai food from the Fulham Road branch of Patara Saturday, September 08th, 2007
This week saw a fine meal at the Brackenbury, tasty Thai food from the Fulham Road branch of Patara and another excellent curry at Madhu's in Southall. I also have a new toy.
A good value Italian discovery - Trenta Saturday, September 01st, 2007
A good value Italian discovery in Trenta this week, along with excellent meals at Trompette and Rasa Samudra. I also forgive Racine for the dismal experience I had there when it opened, and find it has settled down just fine. Sadly Boys in Chiswick is a classic: "nice decor, shame about the food" experience.
Roussillon revisited Saturday, August 25th, 2007
Roussillon delivers another enjoyable meal, and an excuse to eat the gorgeous chocolate desserts here. Tangawizi continues to set a standard for Indian cooking that few in London can match, and Royal China continues serenely along.
Dreamy malai chicken tikka Saturday, August 18th, 2007
I revisit Madhu's and have a malai chicken tikka that dreams are made of. My monthly visit to Zafferano is as good as ever, but Matsuri disappoints. My TV appearance firms up.
I judge a TV dinner Saturday, August 11th, 2007
Pearl serves up a slightly inconsistent, though mostly good, meal. E&O seems busier than ever, and the cooking seems a little sharper to me than on previous visits. Haandi is as consistently excellent as ever, and I judge a TV dinner.
Petite Maison comes to Mayfair Saturday, August 04th, 2007
Does London need yet another over-expensive yet carefully marketed bistro? Le Gavroche delivers a solid, if imperfect meal, while the Brilliant is a rock of reliability and value in Southall.
Hof van Cleve and Oud Sluis - serious food Saturday, July 28th, 2007
A busy week. Haandi, Zuma and Yauatcha all deliver reliable meals, but the week was really all about comparing Le Manoir au Quat Saisons with Hof van Cleve and Oud Sluis.
Umu revisited Saturday, July 21st, 2007
I revisit Umu, the controversial Japanese restaurant. Another excellent meal at Zafferano, but a poor burger experience at Ground. Tangawizi in Richmond continues to impress me. Also, a new site feature, some food quizzes.
Gary Rhodes W1 and Skylon compared Saturday, July 14th, 2007
Two new modern British places this week - Gary Rhodes W1 and Skylon. Also contrasting styles of Indian food at the Brilliant in Southall and Rasa Maracham in, er, Kings Cross.
Theo Randall v Zafferano Saturday, July 07th, 2007
An Italian week: Theo Randall v Zafferano. At the lower end, Chiswick gains an authentic pizzeria. One more terrible hotel meal makes me wonder what they get up to in hotel kitchens, but Royal China's dim sum almost makes up for it. Finally, is Whole Foods over-priced and over here?
Geales is relaunched Saturday, June 23rd, 2007
The Geales relaunch does not fire on all cylinders, but the Brackenbury motors serenely on. Zuma produces another superb meal, while Salt Yard reigns supreme in tapas, even if it is run by Australians.
Summer fun at the Taste of London festival Friday, June 22nd, 2007
Summer fun at the Taste of London festival
The Thai Bistro is replaced by Budsara Saturday, June 16th, 2007
The Thai Bistro is no more, but Budsara is born in its place. Hawksmoor produces a fine steak, while Deya serves up some terrific Indian dishes. I get a further lesson on why it is unwise to leave the tube network when eating, this time in Warwickshire.
Sonnys continues its return to form Saturday, June 09th, 2007
Sonnys continues its return to form. Two different Spanish experiences this week with Barrafina and Moro, while Kiasu is that rarity in London - a Malaysian restaurant. Canteen underwhelms but Zafferano makes up for it.
The finest of Knightsbridge reviewed Saturday, June 02nd, 2007
Meals this week at the Capital, Foliage, Hakkasan, High Road House, Madhu's and Agni. I also find the most expensive beer in London at a restaurant - £9 a bottle anyone?
Some good value Indian meals Saturday, May 26th, 2007
The Brilliant continues to live up to its name, and I manage to break the £10 a head barrier at Diwana Bhel Poori. I also return to Arbutus. On another subject, Marcus Wareing 0, Jill Dupleix 1.
Starry dining - The Fat Duck, Pied a Terre, Le Gavroche and Locanda Locatelli. Saturday, May 19th, 2007
Another busy week, with meals at the Fat Duck, Pied a Terre, Gavroche and Locanda Locatelli. After all that French and Italian food I needed a curry at Haandi.
Manoir au Quat Saison revisited Saturday, May 05th, 2007
Manoir aux Quat' Saison produces a superb meal, and Tom Aikens also delivers a high quality experience. I venture into the world of fusion cuisine at Providores, and have an erratic meal at Michael Moore.
The weirdness that is Suka Saturday, April 28th, 2007
A busy week, with an erratic and costly meal at Suka, an excellent dinner at Roussillon and another at the Ledbury. I even ventured out of London to the Vineyard, and found time for a deeply mediocre curry in Hammersmith. At which place was I sat next to a movie star?
Chez Bruce purrs along Saturday, April 21st, 2007
Chez Bruce purrs along. Smiths of Smithfield wisely sticks to serving top class meat without too many distractions. Sadly chef Mark Jankels is no longer at the stoves of the Notting Hill Brasserie, and it shows. The Waterside Inn shows a few imperfections, though both the view and the bill are spectacular.
Manicomio opens Saturday, April 14th, 2007
Ex chefs at Zafferano cooking at Manicomio produce a pleasant meal, and then Zafferano itself shows how Italian cooking should be done. Tangawizi produces another excellent meal; I don't usually get excited about lentils, but the dhal here is fabulous.
Tantris is tantalising Saturday, April 07th, 2007
A superb meal at Tantris in Munich, though a poor one at Acetaia. Back in London, Boxwood Cafe is disappointing and a chain burger beats its signature dish. I have an "Invasion of the Bodysnatchers" moment in Chiswick.
Munching in Munchen Saturday, March 31st, 2007
Munching in Munchen. A superb meal at Konigshof in Munich. By contrast Aubergine in London disappoints but the Brilliant in Southall is as reliable as ever.
Haandi shows up some of London's trendier venues Saturday, March 17th, 2007
A mixed week, with ever-reliable Haandi showing up some of London's trendier venues. Rocket in Putney has everything right apart from the kitchen, Green and Red in Shoreditch disappoints while I jump into the Deep end in Fulham. Also, a fine burger in W4.
The recently refurbished Gordon Ramsay revisited Saturday, March 10th, 2007
The recently refurbished Gordon Ramsay purrs along. A room with a view is the Petersham Hotel dining room. The new chef at Caprice hasn't changed the formula. I had an excellent tasting menu at Foliage and a cynically poor one at l'Escargot.
The Brilliant is refurbished Saturday, March 03rd, 2007
The Brilliant is successfully refurbished, while St Alban struggles to deliver value for money. I had good meals at Pearl and Yauatcha, while a new Lebanese restaurant is erratic. For the revamped Gordon Ramsay stay tuned next week.
A tale of two curries Saturday, February 24th, 2007
A tale of two curries: fine Indian food in darkest Twickenham, and a return visit to Agni. Zafferano delivers once more, and a mixed bag of tapas in Richmond. Also, the Michelin France 2007 results est arrive.
Scotts opens Saturday, February 17th, 2007
A fishy week, with meals at Scotts and the Fish Shop on St John Street. The under-rated Rousillon continued to show high class technique.
The Michelin results considered Saturday, February 10th, 2007
Good meals at the High Road Brasserie and Royal China. The Michelin results are (except France) mostly in, and an odd lot they are.
Bonds stock is high Saturday, January 20th, 2007
Bonds does a good meal despite a bear market in customers. A new tapas bar in Twickenham works well. Haandi continues to impress.
The sublime to the ridiculous of Italian food Saturday, January 13th, 2007
Two good bistro meals at Tom's Kitchen and High Road Brasserie, and from the sublime to the ridiculous of Italian food: Zafferano v Vino Rosso in Chiswick
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