From Ascot to Maidenhead

Saturday, August 10th , 2019

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The Crown at Burchetts Green is one of those rarities where a chef works alone in the kitchen. Despite this self-imposed limitation, the kitchen produces elaborate classic French cuisine, including labour-intensive reduced sauces taking multiple days to make. At this latest meal we had some particularly good duck as well as a couple of fine desserts, all at a very modest price. The Crown is a joy to dine at.

I also enjoyed another very good meal at Coworth Park (pictured) near Ascot. Here the sophisticated cooking matches the grand country house setting. A fine langoustine dish and excellent fillet of turbot were highlights of a consistently good meal. The dining room is very grand, with a view out over the extensive grounds, and slick service completes an excellent overall package. 

Beck at Browns Hotel lasted just a year, the hotel deciding they wanted a change of format from high end Italian cooking. All too brief, but it gave me the chance to enjoy a few meals there under chef Heros de Agostinis, who was previously head chef at Apsleys and had been senior sous chef at 3 star Michelin Pergola in Rome. We went on the last night so I didn’t write it up, but you can read several prior reviews. It was a lovely meal, with a fine sweetbread dish and the signature fagotelli carbonara. Farewell to the restaurant that was producing the best Italian food in London.