A Trip to Dusseldorf

Saturday, July 12th , 2025

Thomas Buhner previously held three stars for La Vie in Osnabruck. He has been off the restaurant scene in Germany for seven years now, doing consulting work and opening a restaurant in Asia. His new venture in Dusseldorf had high expectations, and perhaps these were too high based on my early visit. The restaurant did gain a Michelin star within weeks of opening, and based on my meal that level of assessment actually feels about right. Doubtless he will aim to get back to his former Michelin status, but I think there is quite a lot of work to do based on this meal, with some very good dishes but also too many dishes that missed the mark.  

The Duchy is a fairly casual restaurant in a luxury hotel in Düsseldorf. Although it does not have especially ambitious culinary goals, the simple lunch that I had here was well-made, based on an appealing a la carte menu. The schnitzel is a speciality here, and very good it was too. When you consider that it also has charming service and a smart dining room, The Duchy succeeds in its aims.