From Belgravia to Maidenhead

Saturday, July 16th , 2022

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The Lanesborough Grill is the latest incarnation of the restaurant set in the light and airy conservatory in the courtyard of the luxury hotel The Lanesborough on Hyde Park Corner. Under chef Shay Cooper the Grill takes a tried and trusted approach of serving crowd pleasing dishes based mainly on British ingredients, so think beef tartare and Dover sole. The food was good, especially a crab dish (pictured) and the desserts, and the space is lovely. Only the size of the bill, bumped up by the excessively marked-up wine list, leaves a slightly sour taste. 

The Crown at Burchetts Green now houses the very capable Dominic Chapman of The Beehive, and also features a short, appealing menu. We enjoyed savoury dishes including a rabbit and bacon terrine and a particularly fine fish soup. Desserts felt like an afterthought, but to be fair this visit was just days after opening, and I expect this aspect to improve as the kitchen settles down.