From Mayfair to Richmond via Hammersmith

Saturday, May 31st , 2025

Crisp Pizza has developed an enviable social media awareness for its New York-style thin crust pizzas served in a pub near the river in Hammersmith. The one I tried was nice enough, but I couldn’t really see what the fuss was about. This is a perfectly pleasant pizza, however, just not one that I would make a detour for.  

I also returned to a couple of my current favourites. The Dysart near Richmond has a Roux Scholar in the kitchen who uses superb quality ingredients, much better than those used in most multi-starred London restaurants. The menu develops steadily and changes with the seasons, with a few favourites like the charred bream, which hopefully will never disappear. The Dysart, with its relaxed atmosphere, widely spaced tables and friendly service, is a joy.

Another restaurant that uses top-notch ingredients is The Cocochine in Mayfair. One of the wealthy investors in the restaurant owns an island in Scotland (called Tanera) with a fishing port as well as a farm, and the restaurant can take its pick of the best products. This is evident in the huge scallops that appear here, but there is also plenty of technique on display. Native lobster is wrapped in leaves and grilled at the table over binchotan charcoal, and is a delight. The cooking here keeps improving, with a few touches of Sri Lanka present in the French menu to reflect the personality and background of the head chef, Larry Jayasekara.